Katey "Scoots" McKee and Sharon Ratton in front of their queer-friendly Mission District coffee shop, Milk SF. (Lady Nigel Butterfly)
S
haron Ratton was metalcasting in the Bayview when the world stopped. She stepped back, tried to turn COVID into an opportunity to develop new skills. Maybe furniture making. That’s when she met Katey “Scoots” McKee, known affectionately as such by her many friends in the queer community. The two met three days after Ratton’s birthday in September 2019.
Ratton says the date turned out to be her real birthday present.
“I put on my best shoes to take her out to a fancy dinner,” the longtime metalworker says. “It must have worked because we’re still together.”
Once the pandemic hit, the couple stayed in each other’s pods before they uhauled, a term in the queer community for lesbians moving in together. Then came a new kind of proposal. “We got engaged first,” McKee says. “But instead of planning an engagement we decided to plan a business.”
That business, a new coffee shop in the Mission called Milk SF, will open on Saturday, June 26 at Mission and 14th. The cafe will serve nice pastries and nitro coffee. But it’s also touting a new piece of coffee technology from West Oakland’s Ground Control Coffee that the business claims will revolutionize the coffee world—if it hasn’t already.
A Fancy New Coffee Machine
“We make bold claims,” Eli Salomon, owner and founder of Ground Control Coffee, says. “But they’re backed with data. It’s better than any pour-over a barista can make on a repeatable basis.”
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That’s a bold claim indeed, considering how ubiquitous the pour-over approach has been in the Bay Area’s high-end coffee scene, each individual cup meticulously hand-brewed by a barista wielding a small copper kettle. Ground Control’s brewer, on the other hand, is the first new batch brewing technology—wherein a machine quickly brews a large quantity of coffee—since the 1950s. The Forbidden Planet–looking device uses a patented vacuum technology to extract coffee from the grounds two or three times, drying the coffee grounds between takes to prevent bitterness. Your typical drip coffee brewer uses gravity to bring water through the grounds. The Ground Control machine fully immerses the coffee grounds in water, more like a French press.
Close-up view of the Ground Control Coffee brewer’s patented vacuum brewing mechanism in action at Merchant Coffee in Prescott, Arizona. (Sean Marin/Merchant Coffee)
The coffee industry has always been dynamic, even if classic diners are still making their coffee with old-fashioned Bunn brewers. More recently, FETCO coffee brewers added important innovations like customizable settings for brew time, temperature and volume. And “smart” brewing, as practiced by companies like Ground Control, is a quantum leap.
Salomon says his machine has passed every hurdle. It even manages to earn green points by using ⅔ the amount of coffee beans to produce the same cup as other brewers. Salomon says there was a lot of skepticism when Ground Control launched in Salomon’s San Francisco kitchen eight years ago. “Now,” he says, “folks have had a chance to try the cup, and most of our critics have joined our side.”
Count Umeko Motoyoshi among those who are fully convinced. They are the host of coffee podcast A Better Table and are high-key famous in the coffee world. The Q grader and former barista spent an entire week solely focused on learning how the Ground Control machine works.
“With a batch brewer, baristas don’t have to live in fight-or-flight mode just to keep up,” Motoyoshi writes in an email to KQED. “And Ground Control’s extraction technology is such that it’s not just consistent, it’s consistently excellent.”
The labor-saving aspect of the machine, which can produce 11 12-ounce cups of freshly brewed coffee at the touch of a button, is especially appealing to Motoyoshi. They say that the expectations that customers have of a cafe can never really be fulfilled by the baristas, and that any technology that can support the work experience is a godsend.
“This would have saved so much stress, hassle, and bodily wear and tear,” Motoyoshi writes of their time working the bar. “Moreover, it would have sent a message that the owner cared about my health and happiness.”
The machine also impressed Helen Russell, co-owner and founder of Equator Coffees and Tea, who says the difference is “like propeller planes to jets.” Russell used to drill extra holes into the baskets of her Bunn batch brewer in order to coax more flavor out of the beans. Now that she’s installed the Ground Control brewer in her Fort Mason shop, making Equator Salomon’s first Bay Area customer, those extra steps are no longer necessary.
“For us to be putting it in our stores says something about the product,” Russell says. “It was a huge risk.”
Now, Equator’s Proof Lab in Mill Valley and its new location in Culver City also use Ground Control machines. The Michelin three-starred chef Dominique Crenn even asked about the machine during a visit to Equator. Now she’s got one in her new Salesforce Tower bakery.
Throughout the world the company has placed a little over 200 of their machines. In the Bay Area, they’ve installed about 30. But in the coffee shop–laden Mission, the technology is still catching on. While Dandelion Chocolate sports a Ground Control brewer, Milk SF is the only business exclusively using the rig.
In part, that decision was the result of a personal connection between the two businesses. Long before Salomon launched Ground Control, he would get his hair cut by McKee at Glama-rama!, the venerable Mission District hair salon she now owns, every few weeks for the better part of a decade. Knowing McKee loved coffee, he invited her for tastings in his living room once he’d developed a prototype. At the time, McKee joked that she would buy a machine from Salomon one day. “I have a friend who is going to change coffee,” she says. “And now I have the opportunity to be a part of it.”
A Better Post-Pandemic Service Industry
Does the coffee itself live up to the hype? A few weeks ago, I had the chance to sit outside Ground Control’s retrofitted garage warehouse in West Oakland, sipping coffee prepared on the machine as a generous East Bay sun beamed down. And I, too, was convinced: The coffee was really, really good. It reminded me of the first time I tried coffee at a Bay Area coffee shop back in 2018 and my small-town Washington mind was fully blown. Clean, fruity, sweet and tasty—words I had never associated with coffee. The Ground Control coffee felt similarly new.
But cafes are about more than just the taste of their coffee: They’re about the time, labor and money that go into their drinks, too. According to Salomon, Ground Control aims to make a positive difference in those aspects as well.
“Service folks should live without fear that they won’t be able to pay their student loans,” Salomon says. “To make ends meet, cafe owners sometimes take money from their staff in the form of permanent below-living wages, and that isn’t ethical. If you can’t pay your team in a way that they can live in their community without fear of a deep financial burden, that’s a doomed scenario.”
A Ground Control machine in the wild at 392 Caffe in Davenport, Iowa. (Matt Umland)
The Ground Control system runs about four times the cost of a typical drip machine, but to Salomon, the high price point of the machine is an investment in community betterment. The machine is easy to use, which means there’s less of a barrier to entry for someone to become a skilled barista. And because the coffee produced by the Ground Control machines is popular, in theory they allow business owners to pay their employees better, too. In Tulsa, Oklahoma, for example, Ground Control customer Cirque Coffee went from selling five gallons of iced latte a day to 30 gallons, earning an estimated additional revenue of $40,000 a month. It’s unsurprising, then, that Ground Control’s business septupled during the pandemic.
It’s true, however, that a coffee shop owner might simply choose to pocket any additional profits rather than hire back COVID-furloughed employees. The relative simplicity of the Ground Control machines might even allow a cafe to reduce its workforce even further. Salomon, for his part, says he doesn’t want Ground Control to replace employees.
“One of the great tragedies of COVID has been that many members of the coffee community have lost their jobs,” he says. “And many of them being those at the most financially vulnerable members of the coffee community, in entry-level roles.”
But Salomon says proper implementation should keep income high and staff turnover low. And for baristas at Ground Control–equipped shops, the tech also has the potential to improve the quality of their work life. Salomon says his brewer frees up baristas so they have time to build the meaningful customer relationships that allow local businesses to thrive. For instance, the machine makes a batch of cold brew in just eight minutes (instead of overnight), so cafe workers never have to scramble to make more of the increasingly popular drink. According to Russell at Equator, those time savings allow baristas to learn more about coffee and machine repair without having to constantly whip out drinks.
Replacing pour-over might also be a step toward making the job of a barista more sustainable. “In my opinion, the belief that baristas should hand-pour each coffee borders on a fetishization of service labor,” Motoyoshi writes. “It’s just not possible to execute that level of quality again and again, flawlessly, for hours.”
A Healthier Place to Work
The bright pink walls of Glama-Rama! let you know you’ve arrived at one of the Mission’s most venerable hair salons. It’s been around almost 25 years and has about 10,000 clients. McKee purchased the famous business from its founder in December 2016.
“Queers on the East Coast know about us,” McKee says. “Working there is where I had my own self-discovery.”
With Milk SF, she and Ratton wanted to create a daytime space that would be accessible to the queer community—and to create jobs for that community in the same way as the salon.
“When we opened the business, Scoots says to me, ‘Put your labor where your mouth is,’” Ratton says. To get the business off the ground, they’ve opted to DIY everywhere they can.
“It’s COVID, so budgets are tight,” Ratton says. “Luckily I have a lot of friends who are carpenters and metalsmiths.”
McKee also chose Ground Control in part because she doesn’t want to compete directly with the established shops nearby. She’s hoping it’ll be a magnet for deep coffee nerds, too. And, as another way to distinguish themselves, they plan to use the machine to batch-make tea.
“Having the machine in our space lets us do something a little different than everyone else on that block,” McKee says.
The machine’s reliability is also a big sell. The folks at Glama-Rama! have gone through many defunct Mr. Coffee machines, McKee laments.
McKee and Ratton also want to bring Salomon’s vision of a better service industry to fruition at their shop. McKee notes that in her work as a hairstylist, and during a stint working at a Peet’s, she has suffered from tendinitis.
In fact, many baristas experience wrist and elbow injuries in the long term, and panic attacks behind the bar are also quite common, Motoyoshi confirms.
“Most folks don’t realize the specialty coffee industry chronically overworks baristas,” Motoyoshi writes. “Considering all this, it’s amazing how good baristas are at producing consistent coffee.”
What McKee and Ratton are hoping is that Ground Control will help them to create a healthier work environment. For a small, bootstrapped cafe like Milk SF, the machine’s ease of use also means they’ll be able to get their business up and running more quickly than they would otherwise.
“We’re in our thirties. We don’t have time to waste,” Ratton says.
Milk SF opens on Saturday, June 26 at 302 Valencia St. in San Francisco. It will be open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m.
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A previous version of this article contained a quote by Katey McKee that has been interpreted as downplaying workplace allegations at Four Barrel Coffee. This was not McKee’s intention. After consultation and review, KQED has agreed to remove the quote.
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She stepped back, tried to turn COVID into an opportunity to develop new skills. Maybe furniture making. That’s when she met Katey “Scoots” McKee, known affectionately as such by her many friends in the queer community. The two met three days after Ratton’s birthday in September 2019.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ratton says the date turned out to be her real birthday present. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I put on my best shoes to take her out to a fancy dinner,” the longtime metalworker says. “It must have worked because we’re still together.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Once the pandemic hit, the couple stayed in each other’s pods before they uhauled, a term in the queer community for lesbians moving in together. Then came a new kind of proposal. “We got engaged first,” McKee says. “But instead of planning an engagement we decided to plan a business.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That business, a new coffee shop in the Mission called Milk SF, will open on Saturday, June 26 at Mission and 14th. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/An-all-day-queer-cafe-serving-inventive-coffee-is-16256143.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The cafe will serve nice pastries and nitro coffee\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. But it’s also touting a new piece of coffee technology from West Oakland’s Ground Control Coffee that the business claims will revolutionize the coffee world—if it hasn’t already. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> A Fancy New Coffee Machine\u003c/span>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We make bold claims,” Eli Salomon, owner and founder of Ground Control Coffee, says. “But they’re backed with data. It’s better than any pour-over a barista can make on a repeatable basis.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s a bold claim indeed, considering how ubiquitous the pour-over approach has been in the Bay Area’s high-end coffee scene, each individual cup meticulously hand-brewed by a barista wielding a small copper kettle. Ground Control’s brewer, on the other hand, is the first new batch brewing technology—wherein a machine quickly brews a large quantity of coffee—since the 1950s. The \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Forbidden Planet\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">–looking device uses a patented vacuum technology to extract coffee from the grounds two or three times, drying the coffee grounds between takes to prevent bitterness. Your typical drip coffee brewer uses gravity to bring water through the grounds. The Ground Control machine fully immerses the coffee grounds in water, more like a French press.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13899389\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1072px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13899389\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Merchant-Coffee-in-Prescott-AZ-ZOOMED-in.-Photo-Credit-Sean-Marin-Merchant-Coffee.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up view of Ground Control's space age–looking machine, with coffee brewing in a clear glass cylinder on top.\" width=\"1072\" height=\"1317\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Merchant-Coffee-in-Prescott-AZ-ZOOMED-in.-Photo-Credit-Sean-Marin-Merchant-Coffee.jpg 1072w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Merchant-Coffee-in-Prescott-AZ-ZOOMED-in.-Photo-Credit-Sean-Marin-Merchant-Coffee-800x983.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Merchant-Coffee-in-Prescott-AZ-ZOOMED-in.-Photo-Credit-Sean-Marin-Merchant-Coffee-1020x1253.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Merchant-Coffee-in-Prescott-AZ-ZOOMED-in.-Photo-Credit-Sean-Marin-Merchant-Coffee-160x197.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Merchant-Coffee-in-Prescott-AZ-ZOOMED-in.-Photo-Credit-Sean-Marin-Merchant-Coffee-768x944.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1072px) 100vw, 1072px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Close-up view of the Ground Control Coffee brewer’s patented vacuum brewing mechanism in action at Merchant Coffee in Prescott, Arizona. \u003ccite>(Sean Marin/Merchant Coffee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The coffee industry has always been dynamic, even if classic diners are still making their coffee with old-fashioned Bunn brewers. More recently, FETCO coffee brewers added important innovations like customizable settings for brew time, temperature and volume. And “smart” brewing, as practiced by companies like Ground Control, is a quantum leap.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Salomon says his machine has passed every hurdle. It even manages to earn green points by using ⅔ the amount of coffee beans to produce the same cup as other brewers. Salomon says there was a lot of skepticism when Ground Control launched in Salomon’s San Francisco kitchen eight years ago. “Now,” he says, “folks have had a chance to try the cup, and most of our critics have joined our side.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Count Umeko Motoyoshi among those who are fully convinced. They are the host of coffee podcast \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://abettertable.libsyn.com\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A Better Table\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and are \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.baristamagazine.com/umeshiso/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">high-key famous in the coffee world\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.coffeeinstitute.org/our-work/a_common_language/what-is-a-q-grader/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Q grader\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and former barista spent an entire week solely focused on learning how the Ground Control machine works. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“With a batch brewer, baristas don’t have to live in fight-or-flight mode just to keep up,” Motoyoshi writes in an email to KQED. “And Ground Control’s extraction technology is such that it’s not just consistent, it’s consistently excellent.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The labor-saving aspect of the machine, which can produce 11 12-ounce cups of freshly brewed coffee at the touch of a button, is especially appealing to Motoyoshi. They say that the expectations that customers have of a cafe can never really be fulfilled by the baristas, and that any technology that can support the work experience is a godsend. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“This would have saved so much stress, hassle, and bodily wear and tear,” Motoyoshi writes of their time working the bar. “Moreover, it would have sent a message that the owner cared about my health and happiness.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The machine also impressed Helen Russell, co-owner and founder of Equator Coffees and Tea, who says the difference is “like propeller planes to jets.” Russell used to drill extra holes into the baskets of her Bunn batch brewer in order to coax more flavor out of the beans. Now that she’s installed the Ground Control brewer in her Fort Mason shop, making Equator Salomon’s first Bay Area customer, those extra steps are no longer necessary. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“For us to be putting it in our stores says something about the product,” Russell says. “It was a huge risk.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, Equator’s Proof Lab in Mill Valley and its new location in Culver City also use Ground Control machines. The Michelin three-starred chef Dominique Crenn even asked about the machine during a visit to Equator. Now she’s got one in her new Salesforce Tower bakery. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Throughout the world the company has placed a little over 200 of their machines. In the Bay Area, they’ve installed about 30. But in the coffee shop–laden Mission, the technology is still catching on. While Dandelion Chocolate sports a Ground Control brewer, Milk SF is the only business \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">exclusively \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">using the rig.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In part, that decision was the result of a personal connection between the two businesses. Long before Salomon launched Ground Control, he would get his hair cut by McKee at Glama-rama!, the venerable Mission District hair salon she now owns, every few weeks for the better part of a decade. Knowing McKee loved coffee, he invited her for tastings in his living room once he’d developed a prototype. At the time, McKee joked that she would buy a machine from Salomon one day. “I have a friend who is going to change coffee,” she says. “And now I have the opportunity to be a part of it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A Better Post-Pandemic Service Industry\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Does the coffee itself live up to the hype? A few weeks ago, I had the chance to sit outside Ground Control’s retrofitted garage warehouse in West Oakland, sipping coffee prepared on the machine as a generous East Bay sun beamed down. And I, too, was convinced: The coffee was really, really good. It reminded me of the first time I tried coffee at a Bay Area coffee shop back in 2018 and my small-town Washington mind was fully blown. Clean, fruity, sweet and tasty—words I had never associated with coffee. The Ground Control coffee felt similarly new.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But cafes are about more than just the taste of their coffee: They’re about the time, labor and money that go into their drinks, too. According to Salomon, Ground Control aims to make a positive difference in those aspects as well.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Service folks should live without fear that they won’t be able to pay their student loans,” Salomon says. “To make ends meet, cafe owners sometimes take money from their staff in the form of permanent below-living wages, and that isn’t ethical. If you can’t pay your team in a way that they can live in their community without fear of a deep financial burden, \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">that’s a doomed scenario\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13899391\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 975px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13899391\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/392-Caffe-in-Davenport-IA.-Photo-Credit-Matt-Umland.jpg\" alt=\"A Ground Control Coffee batch brewer in a coffee shop in front of an exposed brick wall with shelving.\" width=\"975\" height=\"650\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/392-Caffe-in-Davenport-IA.-Photo-Credit-Matt-Umland.jpg 975w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/392-Caffe-in-Davenport-IA.-Photo-Credit-Matt-Umland-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/392-Caffe-in-Davenport-IA.-Photo-Credit-Matt-Umland-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/392-Caffe-in-Davenport-IA.-Photo-Credit-Matt-Umland-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 975px) 100vw, 975px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Ground Control machine in the wild at 392 Caffe in Davenport, Iowa. \u003ccite>(Matt Umland)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Ground Control system runs about four times the cost of a typical drip machine, but to Salomon, the high price point of the machine is an investment in community betterment. The machine is easy to use, which means there’s less of a barrier to entry for someone to become a skilled barista. And because the coffee produced by the Ground Control machines is popular, in theory they allow business owners to pay their employees better, too. In Tulsa, Oklahoma, for example, Ground Control customer Cirque Coffee went from selling five gallons of iced latte a day to 30 gallons, earning an estimated additional revenue of $40,000 a month. It’s unsurprising, then, that Ground Control’s business \u003ci>septupled\u003c/i> during the pandemic. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s true, however, that a coffee shop owner might simply choose to pocket any additional profits rather than hire back COVID-furloughed employees. The relative simplicity of the Ground Control machines might even allow a cafe to reduce its workforce even further. Salomon, for his part, says he doesn’t want Ground Control to replace employees. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“One of the great tragedies of COVID has been that many members of the coffee community have lost their jobs,” he says. “And many of them being those at the \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">most financially vulnerable members of the coffee community, in entry-level roles\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Umeko Motoyoshi of \u003cem>A Better Table\u003c/em>\"]“The belief that baristas should hand-pour each coffee borders on a fetishization of service labor.”[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But Salomon says proper implementation should keep income high and staff turnover low. And for baristas at Ground Control–equipped shops, the tech also has the potential to improve the quality of their work life. Salomon says his brewer frees up baristas so they have time to build the meaningful customer relationships that allow local businesses to thrive. For instance, the machine makes a batch of cold brew in just eight minutes (instead of overnight), so cafe workers never have to scramble to make \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.grandviewresearch.com/press-release/global-cold-brew-coffee-market\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">more of the increasingly popular drink\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. According to Russell at Equator, those time savings allow baristas to learn more about coffee and machine repair without having to constantly whip out drinks.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Replacing pour-over might also be a step toward making the job of a barista more sustainable. “In my opinion, the belief that baristas should hand-pour each coffee borders on a fetishization of service labor,” Motoyoshi writes. “It’s just not possible to execute that level of quality again and again, flawlessly, for hours.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>A Healthier Place to Work\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The bright pink walls of Glama-Rama! let you know you’ve arrived at one of the Mission’s most venerable hair salons. It’s been around almost 25 years and has about 10,000 clients. McKee \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">purchased the famous business from its founder in\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> December 2016. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Queers on the East Coast know about us,” McKee says. “Working there is where I had my own self-discovery.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With Milk SF, she and Ratton wanted to create a daytime space that would be \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">accessible to the queer community—and to create jobs for that community in the same way as the salon.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“When we opened the business, Scoots says to me, ‘Put your labor where your mouth is,’” Ratton says.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> To get the business off the ground, they’ve opted to DIY everywhere they can.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s COVID, so budgets are tight,” Ratton says. “Luckily I have a lot of friends who are carpenters and metalsmiths.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s not lost on them that they are across the street from Four Barrel, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sprudge.com/four-barrel-129581.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a coffee company that has faced accusations of sexual harassment and of being a toxic workplace.\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> “I’ve worked on the block the entire time,” McKee says. “What happened was wrong.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='bayareabites_133282,bayareabites_130967,bayareabites_138574']McKee also chose Ground Control in part because she doesn’t want to compete directly with the established shops nearby. She’s hoping it’ll be a magnet for deep coffee nerds, too. And, as another way to distinguish themselves, they plan to use the machine to batch-make tea.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Having the machine in our space lets us do something a little different than everyone else on that block,” McKee says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The machine’s reliability is also a big sell. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The folks at Glama-Rama! have gone through many defunct Mr. Coffee machines, McKee laments. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">McKee and Ratton also want to \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bring Salomon’s vision of a better service industry to fruition at their shop. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">McKee notes that in her work as a hairstylist, and during a stint working at a Peet’s, she has suffered from tendinitis.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In fact, many baristas experience wrist and elbow injuries in the long term, and panic attacks behind the bar are also quite common, Motoyoshi confirms.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Most folks don’t realize the specialty coffee industry chronically overworks baristas,” Motoyoshi writes. “Considering all this, it’s amazing how good baristas are at producing consistent coffee.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What McKee and Ratton are hoping is that Ground Control will help them to create a healthier work environment. For a small, bootstrapped cafe like Milk SF, the machine’s ease of use also means they’ll be able to get their business up and running more quickly than they would otherwise.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We’re in our thirties. We don’t have time to waste,” Ratton says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.milk-sf.com/\">Milk SF\u003c/a> opens on Saturday, June 26 at 302 Valencia St. in San Francisco. It will be open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci data-stringify-type=\"italic\">A previous version of this article contained a quote by Katey McKee that has been interpreted as downplaying workplace allegations at Four Barrel Coffee. This was not McKee’s intention. After consultation and review, KQED has agreed to remove the quote.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":2387,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":46},"modified":1705008149,"excerpt":"The Mission District's new queer-owned cafe has high hopes for Ground Control Coffee's cutting-edge tech.","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"The Mission District's new queer-owned cafe has high hopes for Ground Control Coffee's cutting-edge tech.","title":"With Its Fancy New Coffee Machine, Milk SF Wants to Help Revolutionize the Service Industry | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"With Its Fancy New Coffee Machine, Milk SF Wants to Help Revolutionize the Service Industry","datePublished":"2021-06-25T12:25:43-07:00","dateModified":"2024-01-11T13:22:29-08:00","image":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/MilkSF_Featured_Lady-Nigel-Butterfly-1020x574.jpg"},"authorsData":[{"type":"authors","id":"byline_arts_13899379","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_arts_13899379","name":"Paolo Bicchieri","isLoading":false}],"imageData":{"ogImageSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/MilkSF_Featured_Lady-Nigel-Butterfly-1020x574.jpg","width":1020,"mimeType":"image/jpeg","height":574},"ogImageWidth":"1020","ogImageHeight":"574","twitterImageUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/MilkSF_Featured_Lady-Nigel-Butterfly-1020x574.jpg","twImageSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/MilkSF_Featured_Lady-Nigel-Butterfly-1020x574.jpg","width":1020,"mimeType":"image/jpeg","height":574},"twitterCard":"summary_large_image"},"tagData":{"tags":["featured-arts","food","Mission District"]}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"milk-sf-ground-control-coffee-batch-brewer","status":"publish","sourceUrl":"/food/","nprByline":"Paolo Bicchieri","sticky":false,"source":"Food","WpOldSlug":"with-its-fancy-new-coffee-machine-milk-sf-wants-to-help-revolutionize-the-service-industry","path":"/arts/13899379/milk-sf-ground-control-coffee-batch-brewer","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">S\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>haron Ratton was metalcasting in the Bayview when the world stopped. She stepped back, tried to turn COVID into an opportunity to develop new skills. Maybe furniture making. That’s when she met Katey “Scoots” McKee, known affectionately as such by her many friends in the queer community. The two met three days after Ratton’s birthday in September 2019.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ratton says the date turned out to be her real birthday present. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I put on my best shoes to take her out to a fancy dinner,” the longtime metalworker says. “It must have worked because we’re still together.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Once the pandemic hit, the couple stayed in each other’s pods before they uhauled, a term in the queer community for lesbians moving in together. Then came a new kind of proposal. “We got engaged first,” McKee says. “But instead of planning an engagement we decided to plan a business.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That business, a new coffee shop in the Mission called Milk SF, will open on Saturday, June 26 at Mission and 14th. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/An-all-day-queer-cafe-serving-inventive-coffee-is-16256143.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The cafe will serve nice pastries and nitro coffee\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. But it’s also touting a new piece of coffee technology from West Oakland’s Ground Control Coffee that the business claims will revolutionize the coffee world—if it hasn’t already. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> A Fancy New Coffee Machine\u003c/span>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We make bold claims,” Eli Salomon, owner and founder of Ground Control Coffee, says. “But they’re backed with data. It’s better than any pour-over a barista can make on a repeatable basis.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s a bold claim indeed, considering how ubiquitous the pour-over approach has been in the Bay Area’s high-end coffee scene, each individual cup meticulously hand-brewed by a barista wielding a small copper kettle. Ground Control’s brewer, on the other hand, is the first new batch brewing technology—wherein a machine quickly brews a large quantity of coffee—since the 1950s. The \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Forbidden Planet\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">–looking device uses a patented vacuum technology to extract coffee from the grounds two or three times, drying the coffee grounds between takes to prevent bitterness. Your typical drip coffee brewer uses gravity to bring water through the grounds. The Ground Control machine fully immerses the coffee grounds in water, more like a French press.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13899389\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1072px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13899389\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Merchant-Coffee-in-Prescott-AZ-ZOOMED-in.-Photo-Credit-Sean-Marin-Merchant-Coffee.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up view of Ground Control's space age–looking machine, with coffee brewing in a clear glass cylinder on top.\" width=\"1072\" height=\"1317\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Merchant-Coffee-in-Prescott-AZ-ZOOMED-in.-Photo-Credit-Sean-Marin-Merchant-Coffee.jpg 1072w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Merchant-Coffee-in-Prescott-AZ-ZOOMED-in.-Photo-Credit-Sean-Marin-Merchant-Coffee-800x983.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Merchant-Coffee-in-Prescott-AZ-ZOOMED-in.-Photo-Credit-Sean-Marin-Merchant-Coffee-1020x1253.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Merchant-Coffee-in-Prescott-AZ-ZOOMED-in.-Photo-Credit-Sean-Marin-Merchant-Coffee-160x197.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/Merchant-Coffee-in-Prescott-AZ-ZOOMED-in.-Photo-Credit-Sean-Marin-Merchant-Coffee-768x944.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1072px) 100vw, 1072px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Close-up view of the Ground Control Coffee brewer’s patented vacuum brewing mechanism in action at Merchant Coffee in Prescott, Arizona. \u003ccite>(Sean Marin/Merchant Coffee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The coffee industry has always been dynamic, even if classic diners are still making their coffee with old-fashioned Bunn brewers. More recently, FETCO coffee brewers added important innovations like customizable settings for brew time, temperature and volume. And “smart” brewing, as practiced by companies like Ground Control, is a quantum leap.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Salomon says his machine has passed every hurdle. It even manages to earn green points by using ⅔ the amount of coffee beans to produce the same cup as other brewers. Salomon says there was a lot of skepticism when Ground Control launched in Salomon’s San Francisco kitchen eight years ago. “Now,” he says, “folks have had a chance to try the cup, and most of our critics have joined our side.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Count Umeko Motoyoshi among those who are fully convinced. They are the host of coffee podcast \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://abettertable.libsyn.com\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A Better Table\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and are \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.baristamagazine.com/umeshiso/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">high-key famous in the coffee world\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.coffeeinstitute.org/our-work/a_common_language/what-is-a-q-grader/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Q grader\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and former barista spent an entire week solely focused on learning how the Ground Control machine works. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“With a batch brewer, baristas don’t have to live in fight-or-flight mode just to keep up,” Motoyoshi writes in an email to KQED. “And Ground Control’s extraction technology is such that it’s not just consistent, it’s consistently excellent.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The labor-saving aspect of the machine, which can produce 11 12-ounce cups of freshly brewed coffee at the touch of a button, is especially appealing to Motoyoshi. They say that the expectations that customers have of a cafe can never really be fulfilled by the baristas, and that any technology that can support the work experience is a godsend. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“This would have saved so much stress, hassle, and bodily wear and tear,” Motoyoshi writes of their time working the bar. “Moreover, it would have sent a message that the owner cared about my health and happiness.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The machine also impressed Helen Russell, co-owner and founder of Equator Coffees and Tea, who says the difference is “like propeller planes to jets.” Russell used to drill extra holes into the baskets of her Bunn batch brewer in order to coax more flavor out of the beans. Now that she’s installed the Ground Control brewer in her Fort Mason shop, making Equator Salomon’s first Bay Area customer, those extra steps are no longer necessary. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“For us to be putting it in our stores says something about the product,” Russell says. “It was a huge risk.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, Equator’s Proof Lab in Mill Valley and its new location in Culver City also use Ground Control machines. The Michelin three-starred chef Dominique Crenn even asked about the machine during a visit to Equator. Now she’s got one in her new Salesforce Tower bakery. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Throughout the world the company has placed a little over 200 of their machines. In the Bay Area, they’ve installed about 30. But in the coffee shop–laden Mission, the technology is still catching on. While Dandelion Chocolate sports a Ground Control brewer, Milk SF is the only business \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">exclusively \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">using the rig.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In part, that decision was the result of a personal connection between the two businesses. Long before Salomon launched Ground Control, he would get his hair cut by McKee at Glama-rama!, the venerable Mission District hair salon she now owns, every few weeks for the better part of a decade. Knowing McKee loved coffee, he invited her for tastings in his living room once he’d developed a prototype. At the time, McKee joked that she would buy a machine from Salomon one day. “I have a friend who is going to change coffee,” she says. “And now I have the opportunity to be a part of it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A Better Post-Pandemic Service Industry\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Does the coffee itself live up to the hype? A few weeks ago, I had the chance to sit outside Ground Control’s retrofitted garage warehouse in West Oakland, sipping coffee prepared on the machine as a generous East Bay sun beamed down. And I, too, was convinced: The coffee was really, really good. It reminded me of the first time I tried coffee at a Bay Area coffee shop back in 2018 and my small-town Washington mind was fully blown. Clean, fruity, sweet and tasty—words I had never associated with coffee. The Ground Control coffee felt similarly new.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But cafes are about more than just the taste of their coffee: They’re about the time, labor and money that go into their drinks, too. According to Salomon, Ground Control aims to make a positive difference in those aspects as well.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Service folks should live without fear that they won’t be able to pay their student loans,” Salomon says. “To make ends meet, cafe owners sometimes take money from their staff in the form of permanent below-living wages, and that isn’t ethical. If you can’t pay your team in a way that they can live in their community without fear of a deep financial burden, \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">that’s a doomed scenario\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13899391\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 975px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13899391\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/392-Caffe-in-Davenport-IA.-Photo-Credit-Matt-Umland.jpg\" alt=\"A Ground Control Coffee batch brewer in a coffee shop in front of an exposed brick wall with shelving.\" width=\"975\" height=\"650\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/392-Caffe-in-Davenport-IA.-Photo-Credit-Matt-Umland.jpg 975w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/392-Caffe-in-Davenport-IA.-Photo-Credit-Matt-Umland-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/392-Caffe-in-Davenport-IA.-Photo-Credit-Matt-Umland-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/392-Caffe-in-Davenport-IA.-Photo-Credit-Matt-Umland-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 975px) 100vw, 975px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Ground Control machine in the wild at 392 Caffe in Davenport, Iowa. \u003ccite>(Matt Umland)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Ground Control system runs about four times the cost of a typical drip machine, but to Salomon, the high price point of the machine is an investment in community betterment. The machine is easy to use, which means there’s less of a barrier to entry for someone to become a skilled barista. And because the coffee produced by the Ground Control machines is popular, in theory they allow business owners to pay their employees better, too. In Tulsa, Oklahoma, for example, Ground Control customer Cirque Coffee went from selling five gallons of iced latte a day to 30 gallons, earning an estimated additional revenue of $40,000 a month. It’s unsurprising, then, that Ground Control’s business \u003ci>septupled\u003c/i> during the pandemic. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s true, however, that a coffee shop owner might simply choose to pocket any additional profits rather than hire back COVID-furloughed employees. The relative simplicity of the Ground Control machines might even allow a cafe to reduce its workforce even further. Salomon, for his part, says he doesn’t want Ground Control to replace employees. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“One of the great tragedies of COVID has been that many members of the coffee community have lost their jobs,” he says. “And many of them being those at the \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">most financially vulnerable members of the coffee community, in entry-level roles\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"“The belief that baristas should hand-pour each coffee borders on a fetishization of service labor.”","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"large","align":"right","citation":"Umeko Motoyoshi of \u003cem>A Better Table\u003c/em>","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But Salomon says proper implementation should keep income high and staff turnover low. And for baristas at Ground Control–equipped shops, the tech also has the potential to improve the quality of their work life. Salomon says his brewer frees up baristas so they have time to build the meaningful customer relationships that allow local businesses to thrive. For instance, the machine makes a batch of cold brew in just eight minutes (instead of overnight), so cafe workers never have to scramble to make \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.grandviewresearch.com/press-release/global-cold-brew-coffee-market\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">more of the increasingly popular drink\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. According to Russell at Equator, those time savings allow baristas to learn more about coffee and machine repair without having to constantly whip out drinks.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Replacing pour-over might also be a step toward making the job of a barista more sustainable. “In my opinion, the belief that baristas should hand-pour each coffee borders on a fetishization of service labor,” Motoyoshi writes. “It’s just not possible to execute that level of quality again and again, flawlessly, for hours.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>A Healthier Place to Work\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The bright pink walls of Glama-Rama! let you know you’ve arrived at one of the Mission’s most venerable hair salons. It’s been around almost 25 years and has about 10,000 clients. McKee \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">purchased the famous business from its founder in\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> December 2016. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Queers on the East Coast know about us,” McKee says. “Working there is where I had my own self-discovery.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With Milk SF, she and Ratton wanted to create a daytime space that would be \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">accessible to the queer community—and to create jobs for that community in the same way as the salon.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“When we opened the business, Scoots says to me, ‘Put your labor where your mouth is,’” Ratton says.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> To get the business off the ground, they’ve opted to DIY everywhere they can.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It’s COVID, so budgets are tight,” Ratton says. “Luckily I have a lot of friends who are carpenters and metalsmiths.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s not lost on them that they are across the street from Four Barrel, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sprudge.com/four-barrel-129581.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a coffee company that has faced accusations of sexual harassment and of being a toxic workplace.\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> “I’ve worked on the block the entire time,” McKee says. “What happened was wrong.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_133282,bayareabites_130967,bayareabites_138574","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>McKee also chose Ground Control in part because she doesn’t want to compete directly with the established shops nearby. She’s hoping it’ll be a magnet for deep coffee nerds, too. And, as another way to distinguish themselves, they plan to use the machine to batch-make tea.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Having the machine in our space lets us do something a little different than everyone else on that block,” McKee says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The machine’s reliability is also a big sell. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The folks at Glama-Rama! have gone through many defunct Mr. Coffee machines, McKee laments. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">McKee and Ratton also want to \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bring Salomon’s vision of a better service industry to fruition at their shop. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">McKee notes that in her work as a hairstylist, and during a stint working at a Peet’s, she has suffered from tendinitis.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In fact, many baristas experience wrist and elbow injuries in the long term, and panic attacks behind the bar are also quite common, Motoyoshi confirms.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Most folks don’t realize the specialty coffee industry chronically overworks baristas,” Motoyoshi writes. “Considering all this, it’s amazing how good baristas are at producing consistent coffee.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What McKee and Ratton are hoping is that Ground Control will help them to create a healthier work environment. For a small, bootstrapped cafe like Milk SF, the machine’s ease of use also means they’ll be able to get their business up and running more quickly than they would otherwise.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We’re in our thirties. We don’t have time to waste,” Ratton says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.milk-sf.com/\">Milk SF\u003c/a> opens on Saturday, June 26 at 302 Valencia St. in San Francisco. It will be open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci data-stringify-type=\"italic\">A previous version of this article contained a quote by Katey McKee that has been interpreted as downplaying workplace allegations at Four Barrel Coffee. This was not McKee’s intention. After consultation and review, KQED has agreed to remove the quote.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/arts/13899379/milk-sf-ground-control-coffee-batch-brewer","authors":["byline_arts_13899379"],"categories":["arts_1","arts_12276"],"tags":["arts_10278","arts_1297","arts_1257"],"featImg":"arts_13899388","label":"source_arts_13899379","isLoading":false,"hasAllInfo":true}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.","airtime":"MON-FRI 3am-9am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/morning-edition"},"onourwatch":{"id":"onourwatch","title":"On Our Watch","tagline":"Police secrets, unsealed","info":"For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"On Our Watch from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/onourwatch","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"1"},"link":"/podcasts/onourwatch","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/onourwatch","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0OLWoyizopu6tY1XiuX70x","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/On-Our-Watch-p1436229/","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/show/on-our-watch","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"}},"on-the-media":{"id":"on-the-media","title":"On The Media","info":"Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us","airtime":"SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.wnycstudios.org/shows/otm","meta":{"site":"news","source":"wnyc"},"link":"/radio/program/on-the-media","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/","rss":"http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"}},"our-body-politic":{"id":"our-body-politic","title":"Our Body Politic","info":"Presented by KQED, KCRW and KPCC, and created and hosted by award-winning journalist Farai Chideya, Our Body Politic is unapologetically centered on reporting on not just how women of color experience the major political events of today, but how they’re impacting those very issues.","airtime":"SAT 6pm-7pm, SUN 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Our-Body-Politic-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://our-body-politic.simplecast.com/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kcrw"},"link":"/radio/program/our-body-politic","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/our-body-politic/id1533069868","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5zaW1wbGVjYXN0LmNvbS9feGFQaHMxcw","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/4ApAiLT1kV153TttWAmqmc","rss":"https://feeds.simplecast.com/_xaPhs1s","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/podcasts/News--Politics-Podcasts/Our-Body-Politic-p1369211/"}},"pbs-newshour":{"id":"pbs-newshour","title":"PBS NewsHour","info":"Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.","airtime":"MON-FRI 3pm-4pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.pbs.org/newshour/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"pbs"},"link":"/radio/program/pbs-newshour","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/","rss":"https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"}},"perspectives":{"id":"perspectives","title":"Perspectives","tagline":"KQED's series of of daily listener commentaries since 1991","info":"KQED's series of of daily listener commentaries since 1991.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Perspectives-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/perspectives/","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"kqed","order":"15"},"link":"/perspectives","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/id73801135","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432309616/perspectives","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/perspectives/category/perspectives/feed/","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvcGVyc3BlY3RpdmVzL2NhdGVnb3J5L3BlcnNwZWN0aXZlcy9mZWVkLw"}},"planet-money":{"id":"planet-money","title":"Planet Money","info":"The economy explained. 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