Late-summer heat waves are threatening Napa Valley's famed cabernet grapes, which produce some of the United States' most expensive wines. To survive in a hotter climate, winemakers are realizing they'll need to adapt. (Ryan Kellman/NPR)
In California’s Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon is king.
The bold red wine has made the region world famous, with some bottles retailing at hundreds of dollars. But increasingly severe heat waves are taking a toll on the grape variety, especially in late summer during ripening. As temperatures keep rising, the wine industry is slowly confronting a future where Napa may not be the prime cabernet region it once was.
In the face of climate change, wineries around the world are innovating. New technology is being installed to keep the grapes cool during heat spells. A handful of wineries are going a step further. They’re experimenting with new grapes, ripping out high-value cabernet vines to plant varieties from hotter climates.
The goal is to find heat-tolerant grapes that blend well with cabernet, potentially making up for the flavors that cabernet could lack when temperatures get even hotter. While many bottles labeled cabernet are already blended with other grapes in small amounts, winemakers may need more flexibility in the future.
“We know we have to adapt,” says Avery Heelan, a winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards in Calistoga. “We can’t just pretend that it’s going to go away, because all we see is each year it’s getting more and more extreme.”
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Still, blending with other grapes comes with risks. For a U.S. wine to be labeled cabernet, a bottle must contain 75% cabernet grapes or more. Any less, and it’s considered a red blend. Blends typically don’t command the same prices on store shelves as cabernet, especially since consumers are accustomed to picking U.S. wines by the name of the grape. Moving away from cabernet would be a major financial gamble for Napa’s multibillion-dollar wine industry.
“It is a big shift,” says Elisabeth Forrestel, an assistant professor of viticulture and enology at the University of California, Davis. “Without the market changing or demands changing, you can’t convince someone to grow something that doesn’t sell or doesn’t garner the same price.”
UC Davis research assistant Jacob Vito crushes cabernet sauvignon grapes from Napa Valley to analyze their chemical compounds. The lab is studying how heat is affecting the grapes. (Ryan Kellman/NPR)
Charbono, anyone?
Some grapes growing at Larkmead Vineyards aren’t ones that many American wine drinkers would recognize. Long rows of vines are labeled: touriga nacional, aglianico, charbono and tempranillo.
“There’s not a huge market for a lot of these varieties,” says Heelan, walking among the vines on a hot summer afternoon. “We’re really choosing them not from popularity, but for their qualities.”
Established more than a century ago, the winery is known for its bottles of cabernet sauvignon. These lesser-known grapes were planted only a few years ago, part of a research vineyard that took the place of cabernet vines.
“Which most people would probably think is a little crazy, considering it’s 3 acres of perfect cabernet land,” Heelan says. “But certainly with the climate and how dramatically it’s changed over even the last 10 years, we really have to start adjusting.”
Winemaker Avery Heelan is growing several rare grape varieties at Larkmead Vineyards in Napa Valley, in the hope that they’ll blend well with cabernet grapes as temperatures get hotter. (Ryan Kellman/NPR)
The vineyard is already at the hotter northern end of Napa Valley, but the extreme heat in recent years has been a wake-up call. A late-summer heat wave in 2022 hit temperatures just under 120 degrees at the vineyard, she says.
“When it gets that hot, the vines, they’re done,” she says. “They’re going to go dormant, and when that happens, they’re not ripening anymore.”
In extreme heat, cabernet grapes can lose their rich color. They also dehydrate, wrinkling like raisins, which produces wines that are sweeter and more alcoholic. Heelan says the grapes that the vineyard is testing could provide an added boost of color or acidity to cabernet, helping balance out the wine when temperatures take their toll.
The experiment has its cost. In addition to the lost revenue from removing cabernet, grapevines take up to five years to produce their first crop, plus several more years for the wines to ferment. Heelan says only then will they start to see how the new grapes are performing. But the goal is to prepare the winery for the future, knowing that heat will likely get worse.
“Honestly, the more we experiment and learn about how to adapt, I think the wines are just getting better and better,” she says.
In hotter temperatures, cabernet grapes lose their rich red color and produce sweeter, more alcoholic wines. (Ryan Kellman/NPR)
Where cabernet is king
Farther south, Shafer Vineyards sits in the heart of Stags Leap, a Napa wine region that’s known for high-end cabernets. Winemaker Elias Fernandez says the grapes benefit from a cool evening breeze that blows in from San Francisco Bay.
This summer, heat has already been a problem. July was the hottest July on record in California. Fernandez points to a grape cluster where small green grapes are nestled among larger purple ones.
“This is effects of the heat,” he says. “It’s not maturing, so this is where you lose some fruit.”
Winemaker Elias Fernandez is installing new technology at Shafer Vineyards in Napa Valley to combat heat waves. (Ryan Kellman/NPR)
The damage isn’t too widespread this year, unlike in 2022. But with summers getting more intense, Fernandez says the winery is looking at technology to help the cabernet vines. They’re currently installing misters, which spray water into the air to cool the temperature.
“It’s a constant mist,” he says. “How many of you have been to a party where they have misters? Doesn’t that feel good? Well, that’s what the vines are feeling.”
Still, using extra water is a challenge in drought-prone California, he says. Plus, the water droplets can concentrate the light on the grapes and burn them, so misters must be run until the sun sets to keep the droplets from collecting. But Fernandez says he’s hoping the misting will keep the cabernet vines producing at the highest level.
“I think the first thing we’ll be doing is mitigation, hoping to keep it as the true varietal of Napa Valley,” he says. “That’s what we’re trying to do — is buy time and see what happens with this whole thing.”
For now, he’s not considering planting other grape varieties. With wines that are priced at $100 and up, cabernet is central to their business.
“For me, it’s hard to think that people are just going to throw cabernet out the door and plant something else,” he says. “I really do. It’s the king of the wines of the world.”
Wine regions are shifting
Professor Elisabeth Forrestel is studying how Napa’s wine regions are shifting with climate change. (Ryan Kellman/NPR)
Elisabeth Forrestel is one person trying to understand the big swings in the temperature. In her lab at UC Davis, her research team is smashing Napa Valley grapes inside plastic bags. They’ll be analyzed at the molecular level to see how they change during the summer.
Forrestel’s lab is gathering wine grapes from Napa Valley throughout the growing season, along with detailed temperature data, to see how the most crucial compounds for wine are affected by heat. Studies show the average temperature during the last 45 days of the growing season in Napa — when grapes ripen — has already warmed almost 3 degrees Fahrenheit from 1958 to 2016. But it’s the intense heat waves that do the most damage to molecules that produce a wine’s color and aroma.
“When you have these extreme heat events, you can have a lot of impact on the development of that flavor profile,” she says. “If it was just an average change, it would be a lot easier to manage.”
Forrestel is working on updating a central guide for winemaking, known as the Winkler Index. Developed in the 1940s, it shows the ideal locations to grow different varieties of wine grapes, based on how much heat they receive. Napa Valley was originally indexed for cabernet sauvignon, but this could shift as the climate gets hotter.
With cabernet being the world’s most widely grown wine grape, cabernet vines are resilient to different temperatures, Forrestel says. It’s a question of whether Napa winemakers may need new strategies to keep it producing at such a high-quality level. Since grapevines last 50 years or more, winemakers are faced with making planting decisions today that will need to withstand a hotter future.
“Some of the paradigms in what you would plant need to shift,” she says. “People need to have different approaches so there can be more resilience and you can have more options.”
To keep producing high-quality cabernets, Napa Valley winemakers may need to blend them with other grapes to balance out the effects of heat. But wines labeled as blends, instead of cabernet, often sell at lower prices. (Ryan Kellman/NPR)
Would you pay the same for a blend?
Blending cabernet with other red grapes could be one strategy. But since U.S. regulations require any bottle labeled cabernet to contain 75% cabernet, at some point wineries may be looking at changing their labels to say “red blend.”
“We have a perception that a blend is not as high quality as getting that high-quality cabernet, and they’re not on the same price point, so it is a big shift,” Forrestel says.
The challenge is particular to U.S. winemakers, since many other countries label their wines by region, instead of grape. The famed red wines from Bordeaux in France are already a mix of six grapes, including cabernet, so winemakers have more flexibility. Winemakers there have also struggled with heat, so French authorities recently approved four more red-grape varieties for blending. Since the wines are labeled with Bordeaux, wine drinkers may not even notice the shift.
Wines in the U.S. are generally labeled by the grape variety, a system that was promoted when the domestic wine industry was growing in prominence decades ago. In an effort to compete with wines from Europe, some thought focusing on the grape variety would demystify wines for consumers and show the quality of American wines.
Now, that system may work against them. Cabernet sauvignon is the most popular red wine in the U.S., according to NielsenIQ. So Forrestel says consumers are also part of the solution by creating demand for wines that are better suited for a hotter climate.
“Be open,” she says. “Because I think it’s really easy to walk in and buy what you’re used to. And also, trust what you like and not what you’re told to like.”
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To survive in a hotter climate, winemakers are realizing they'll need to adapt.","credit":"Ryan Kellman/NPR","altTag":"Dark red grapes growing in a vineyard.","description":null,"imgSizes":{"medium":{"file":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/grapes-800x480.png","width":800,"height":480,"mimeType":"image/png"},"large":{"file":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/grapes-1020x613.png","width":1020,"height":613,"mimeType":"image/png"},"thumbnail":{"file":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/grapes-160x96.png","width":160,"height":96,"mimeType":"image/png"},"medium_large":{"file":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/grapes-768x461.png","width":768,"height":461,"mimeType":"image/png"},"1536x1536":{"file":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/grapes-1536x922.png","width":1536,"height":922,"mimeType":"image/png"},"post-thumbnail":{"file":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/grapes-672x372.png","width":672,"height":372,"mimeType":"image/png"},"twentyfourteen-full-width":{"file":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/grapes-1038x576.png","width":1038,"height":576,"mimeType":"image/png"},"full-width":{"file":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/grapes-1920x1153.png","width":1920,"height":1153,"mimeType":"image/png"},"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/grapes.png","width":2000,"height":1201}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false}},"audioPlayerReducer":{"postId":"stream_live"},"authorsReducer":{"byline_arts_13963901":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_arts_13963901","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_arts_13963901","name":"Lauren Sommer, NPR","isLoading":false}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"arts_13963901":{"type":"posts","id":"arts_13963901","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"arts","id":"13963901","found":true},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"can-the-most-popular-red-wine-in-the-u-s-endure-climate-change","title":"Can the Most Popular Red Wine in the U.S. Endure Climate Change?","publishDate":1725919031,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Can the Most Popular Red Wine in the U.S. Endure Climate Change? | KQED","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>In California’s Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon is king.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bold red wine has made the region world famous, with some bottles retailing at hundreds of dollars. But increasingly severe heat waves are taking a toll on the grape variety, especially in late summer during ripening. As temperatures keep rising, the wine industry is slowly confronting a future where Napa may not be the prime cabernet region it once was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='quest_17385']In the face of climate change, wineries around the world are innovating. New technology is being installed to keep the grapes cool during heat spells. A handful of wineries are going a step further. They’re experimenting with new grapes, ripping out high-value cabernet vines to plant varieties from hotter climates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The goal is to find heat-tolerant grapes that blend well with cabernet, potentially making up for the flavors that cabernet could lack when temperatures get even hotter. While many bottles labeled cabernet are already blended with other grapes in small amounts, winemakers may need more flexibility in the future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We know we have to adapt,” says Avery Heelan, a winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards in Calistoga. “We can’t just pretend that it’s going to go away, because all we see is each year it’s getting more and more extreme.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, blending with other grapes comes with risks. For a U.S. wine to be labeled cabernet, a bottle must contain 75% cabernet grapes or more. Any less, and it’s considered a red blend. Blends typically don’t command the same prices on store shelves as cabernet, especially since consumers are accustomed to picking U.S. wines by the name of the grape. Moving away from cabernet would be a major financial gamble for Napa’s multibillion-dollar wine industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It is a big shift,” says Elisabeth Forrestel, an assistant professor of viticulture and enology at the University of California, Davis. “Without the market changing or demands changing, you can’t convince someone to grow something that doesn’t sell or doesn’t garner the same price.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963904\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963904\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis.png\" alt=\"A young man in a lab with rows of plastic test tubes in front of him.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-800x534.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-1020x680.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-160x107.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-1536x1025.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-1920x1281.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">UC Davis research assistant Jacob Vito crushes cabernet sauvignon grapes from Napa Valley to analyze their chemical compounds. The lab is studying how heat is affecting the grapes. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Charbono, anyone?\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Some grapes growing at Larkmead Vineyards aren’t ones that many American wine drinkers would recognize. Long rows of vines are labeled: touriga nacional, aglianico, charbono and tempranillo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s not a huge market for a lot of these varieties,” says Heelan, walking among the vines on a hot summer afternoon. “We’re really choosing them not from popularity, but for their qualities.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Established more than a century ago, the winery is known for its bottles of cabernet sauvignon. These lesser-known grapes were planted only a few years ago, part of a research vineyard that took the place of cabernet vines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Which most people would probably think is a little crazy, considering it’s 3 acres of perfect cabernet land,” Heelan says. “But certainly with the climate and how dramatically it’s changed over even the last 10 years, we really have to start adjusting.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963905\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963905\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker.png\" alt=\"A white woman with long brown hair stands in the middle of a vineyard.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1306\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-800x522.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-1020x666.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-160x104.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-768x502.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-1536x1003.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-1920x1254.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Winemaker Avery Heelan is growing several rare grape varieties at Larkmead Vineyards in Napa Valley, in the hope that they’ll blend well with cabernet grapes as temperatures get hotter. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The vineyard is already at the hotter northern end of Napa Valley, but the extreme heat in recent years has been a wake-up call. A late-summer heat wave in 2022 hit temperatures just under 120 degrees at the vineyard, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When it gets that hot, the vines, they’re done,” she says. “They’re going to go dormant, and when that happens, they’re not ripening anymore.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13886632']In extreme heat, cabernet grapes can lose their rich color. They also dehydrate, wrinkling like raisins, which produces wines that are sweeter and more alcoholic. Heelan says the grapes that the vineyard is testing could provide an added boost of color or acidity to cabernet, helping balance out the wine when temperatures take their toll.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The experiment has its cost. In addition to the lost revenue from removing cabernet, grapevines take up to five years to produce their first crop, plus several more years for the wines to ferment. Heelan says only then will they start to see how the new grapes are performing. But the goal is to prepare the winery for the future, knowing that heat will likely get worse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Honestly, the more we experiment and learn about how to adapt, I think the wines are just getting better and better,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963906\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine.png\" alt=\"Red wine is poured into a clear wine glass.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1330\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-800x532.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-1020x678.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-160x106.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-768x511.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-1536x1021.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-1920x1277.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In hotter temperatures, cabernet grapes lose their rich red color and produce sweeter, more alcoholic wines. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Where cabernet is king\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Farther south, Shafer Vineyards sits in the heart of Stags Leap, a Napa wine region that’s known for high-end cabernets. Winemaker Elias Fernandez says the grapes benefit from a cool evening breeze that blows in from San Francisco Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This summer, heat has already been a problem. July was the \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncei.noaa.gov/news/national-climate-202407\">hottest July on record\u003c/a> in California. Fernandez points to a grape cluster where small green grapes are nestled among larger purple ones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This is effects of the heat,” he says. “It’s not maturing, so this is where you lose some fruit.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963907\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1430px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963907\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias.png\" alt=\"A man stands in front of a vinyard, green hills visible in the distance.\" width=\"1430\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias.png 1430w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-800x1119.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-1020x1427.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-160x224.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-768x1074.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-1098x1536.png 1098w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1430px) 100vw, 1430px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Winemaker Elias Fernandez is installing new technology at Shafer Vineyards in Napa Valley to combat heat waves. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The damage isn’t too widespread this year, unlike in 2022. But with summers getting more intense, Fernandez says the winery is looking at technology to help the cabernet vines. They’re currently installing misters, which spray water into the air to cool the temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a constant mist,” he says. “How many of you have been to a party where they have misters? Doesn’t that feel good? Well, that’s what the vines are feeling.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13917165']Still, using extra water is a challenge in drought-prone California, he says. Plus, the water droplets can concentrate the light on the grapes and burn them, so misters must be run until the sun sets to keep the droplets from collecting. But Fernandez says he’s hoping the misting will keep the cabernet vines producing at the highest level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think the first thing we’ll be doing is mitigation, hoping to keep it as the true varietal of Napa Valley,” he says. “That’s what we’re trying to do — is buy time and see what happens with this whole thing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, he’s not considering planting other grape varieties. With wines that are priced at $100 and up, cabernet is central to their business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, it’s hard to think that people are just going to throw cabernet out the door and plant something else,” he says. “I really do. It’s the king of the wines of the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Wine regions are shifting\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963908\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1402px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963908\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth.png\" alt=\"A white woman wearing round glasses stands in a room, looking serious.\" width=\"1402\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth.png 1402w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-800x1141.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-1020x1455.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-160x228.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-768x1096.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-1077x1536.png 1077w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1402px) 100vw, 1402px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Professor Elisabeth Forrestel is studying how Napa’s wine regions are shifting with climate change. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Elisabeth Forrestel is one person trying to understand the big swings in the temperature. In her lab at UC Davis, her research team is smashing Napa Valley grapes inside plastic bags. They’ll be analyzed at the molecular level to see how they change during the summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forrestel’s lab is gathering wine grapes from Napa Valley throughout the growing season, along with detailed temperature data, to see how the most crucial compounds for wine are affected by heat. Studies show the average temperature during the last 45 days of the growing season in Napa — when grapes ripen — has \u003ca href=\"https://doi.org/10.1002/joc.8162\">already warmed almost 3 degrees Fahrenheit\u003c/a> from 1958 to 2016. But it’s the intense heat waves that do the most damage to molecules that produce a wine’s color and aroma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you have these extreme heat events, you can have a lot of impact on the development of that flavor profile,” she says. “If it was just an average change, it would be a lot easier to manage.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='quest_19242']Forrestel is working on updating a central guide for winemaking, known as the \u003ca href=\"https://caes.ucdavis.edu/news/taking-climate-change-vineyards\">Winkler Index\u003c/a>. Developed in the 1940s, it shows the ideal locations to grow different varieties of wine grapes, based on how much heat they receive. Napa Valley was originally indexed for cabernet sauvignon, but this could shift as the climate gets hotter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With cabernet being the \u003ca href=\"https://www.oiv.int/public/medias/5888/en-distribution-of-the-worlds-grapevine-varieties.pdf\">world’s most widely grown wine grape\u003c/a>, cabernet vines are resilient to different temperatures, Forrestel says. It’s a question of whether Napa winemakers may need new strategies to keep it producing at such a high-quality level. Since grapevines last 50 years or more, winemakers are faced with making planting decisions today that will need to withstand a hotter future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some of the paradigms in what you would plant need to shift,” she says. “People need to have different approaches so there can be more resilience and you can have more options.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3007px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963909\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa.png\" alt=\"A vineyard.\" width=\"3007\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa.png 3007w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-800x532.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-1020x678.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-160x106.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-768x511.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-1536x1022.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-2048x1362.png 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-1920x1277.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3007px) 100vw, 3007px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To keep producing high-quality cabernets, Napa Valley winemakers may need to blend them with other grapes to balance out the effects of heat. But wines labeled as blends, instead of cabernet, often sell at lower prices. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Would you pay the same for a blend?\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Blending cabernet with other red grapes could be one strategy. But since U.S. regulations require any bottle labeled cabernet to contain 75% cabernet, at some point wineries may be looking at changing their labels to say “red blend.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have a perception that a blend is not as high quality as getting that high-quality cabernet, and they’re not on the same price point, so it is a big shift,” Forrestel says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The challenge is particular to U.S. winemakers, since many other countries label their wines by region, instead of grape. The famed red wines from Bordeaux in France are already a mix of six grapes, including cabernet, so winemakers have more flexibility. \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/11/05/773097167/climate-change-is-disrupting-centuries-old-methods-of-winemaking-in-france\">Winemakers there have also struggled with heat\u003c/a>, so French authorities recently approved four more red-grape varieties for blending. Since the wines are labeled with Bordeaux, wine drinkers may not even notice the shift.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13963437']Wines in the U.S. are generally labeled by the grape variety, a system that was promoted when the domestic wine industry was growing in prominence decades ago. In an effort to compete with wines from Europe, some thought focusing on the grape variety would demystify wines for consumers and show the quality of American wines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, that system may work against them. Cabernet sauvignon is the most popular red wine in the U.S., according to NielsenIQ. So Forrestel says consumers are also part of the solution by creating demand for wines that are better suited for a hotter climate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Be open,” she says. “Because I think it’s really easy to walk in and buy what you’re used to. And also, trust what you like and not what you’re told to like.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Climate change is affecting our food, and our food is affecting the climate. NPR is dedicating a week to \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/09/06/g-s1-19303/food-climate-solutions\">stories and conversations about the search for solutions\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Bold cabernet sauvignon wines made Napa Valley famous. Now, hotter temperatures are starting to damage the grapes.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1726004459,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":40,"wordCount":1975},"headData":{"title":"How Napa Valley Winemakers are Adapting to Climate Change | KQED","description":"Bold cabernet sauvignon wines made Napa Valley famous. Now, hotter temperatures are starting to damage the grapes.","ogTitle":"Can the Most Popular Red Wine in the U.S. Endure Climate Change?","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"Can the Most Popular Red Wine in the U.S. Endure Climate Change?","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","socialTitle":"How Napa Valley Winemakers are Adapting to Climate Change %%page%% %%sep%% KQED","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Can the Most Popular Red Wine in the U.S. Endure Climate Change?","datePublished":"2024-09-09T14:57:11-07:00","dateModified":"2024-09-10T14:40:59-07:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/grapes-1020x613.png"},"authorsData":[{"type":"authors","id":"byline_arts_13963901","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_arts_13963901","name":"Lauren Sommer, NPR","isLoading":false}],"imageData":{"ogImageSize":{"file":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/grapes-1020x613.png","width":1020,"height":613,"mimeType":"image/png"},"ogImageWidth":"1020","ogImageHeight":"613","twitterImageUrl":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/grapes-1020x613.png","twImageSize":{"file":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/grapes-1020x613.png","width":1020,"height":613,"mimeType":"image/png"},"twitterCard":"summary_large_image"},"tagData":{"tags":["climate change","Napa Valley","north bay","wine"]}},"source":"Food","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/food","sticky":false,"nprByline":"Lauren Sommer, NPR","nprStoryId":"nx-s1-5002055","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/2024/09/09/nx-s1-5002055/wine-cabernet-napa-climate-change","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"2024-09-09T06:00:00-04:00","nprStoryDate":"2024-09-09T06:00:00-04:00","nprLastModifiedDate":"2024-09-09T14:55:13.726-04:00","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","showOnAuthorArchivePages":"No","articleAge":"0","path":"/arts/13963901/can-the-most-popular-red-wine-in-the-u-s-endure-climate-change","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In California’s Napa Valley, cabernet sauvignon is king.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bold red wine has made the region world famous, with some bottles retailing at hundreds of dollars. But increasingly severe heat waves are taking a toll on the grape variety, especially in late summer during ripening. As temperatures keep rising, the wine industry is slowly confronting a future where Napa may not be the prime cabernet region it once was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"quest_17385","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>In the face of climate change, wineries around the world are innovating. New technology is being installed to keep the grapes cool during heat spells. A handful of wineries are going a step further. They’re experimenting with new grapes, ripping out high-value cabernet vines to plant varieties from hotter climates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The goal is to find heat-tolerant grapes that blend well with cabernet, potentially making up for the flavors that cabernet could lack when temperatures get even hotter. While many bottles labeled cabernet are already blended with other grapes in small amounts, winemakers may need more flexibility in the future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We know we have to adapt,” says Avery Heelan, a winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards in Calistoga. “We can’t just pretend that it’s going to go away, because all we see is each year it’s getting more and more extreme.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, blending with other grapes comes with risks. For a U.S. wine to be labeled cabernet, a bottle must contain 75% cabernet grapes or more. Any less, and it’s considered a red blend. Blends typically don’t command the same prices on store shelves as cabernet, especially since consumers are accustomed to picking U.S. wines by the name of the grape. Moving away from cabernet would be a major financial gamble for Napa’s multibillion-dollar wine industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It is a big shift,” says Elisabeth Forrestel, an assistant professor of viticulture and enology at the University of California, Davis. “Without the market changing or demands changing, you can’t convince someone to grow something that doesn’t sell or doesn’t garner the same price.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963904\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963904\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis.png\" alt=\"A young man in a lab with rows of plastic test tubes in front of him.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-800x534.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-1020x680.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-160x107.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-1536x1025.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/davis-1920x1281.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">UC Davis research assistant Jacob Vito crushes cabernet sauvignon grapes from Napa Valley to analyze their chemical compounds. The lab is studying how heat is affecting the grapes. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Charbono, anyone?\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Some grapes growing at Larkmead Vineyards aren’t ones that many American wine drinkers would recognize. Long rows of vines are labeled: touriga nacional, aglianico, charbono and tempranillo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s not a huge market for a lot of these varieties,” says Heelan, walking among the vines on a hot summer afternoon. “We’re really choosing them not from popularity, but for their qualities.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Established more than a century ago, the winery is known for its bottles of cabernet sauvignon. These lesser-known grapes were planted only a few years ago, part of a research vineyard that took the place of cabernet vines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Which most people would probably think is a little crazy, considering it’s 3 acres of perfect cabernet land,” Heelan says. “But certainly with the climate and how dramatically it’s changed over even the last 10 years, we really have to start adjusting.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963905\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963905\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker.png\" alt=\"A white woman with long brown hair stands in the middle of a vineyard.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1306\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-800x522.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-1020x666.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-160x104.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-768x502.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-1536x1003.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/winemaker-1920x1254.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Winemaker Avery Heelan is growing several rare grape varieties at Larkmead Vineyards in Napa Valley, in the hope that they’ll blend well with cabernet grapes as temperatures get hotter. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The vineyard is already at the hotter northern end of Napa Valley, but the extreme heat in recent years has been a wake-up call. A late-summer heat wave in 2022 hit temperatures just under 120 degrees at the vineyard, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When it gets that hot, the vines, they’re done,” she says. “They’re going to go dormant, and when that happens, they’re not ripening anymore.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"arts_13886632","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>In extreme heat, cabernet grapes can lose their rich color. They also dehydrate, wrinkling like raisins, which produces wines that are sweeter and more alcoholic. Heelan says the grapes that the vineyard is testing could provide an added boost of color or acidity to cabernet, helping balance out the wine when temperatures take their toll.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The experiment has its cost. In addition to the lost revenue from removing cabernet, grapevines take up to five years to produce their first crop, plus several more years for the wines to ferment. Heelan says only then will they start to see how the new grapes are performing. But the goal is to prepare the winery for the future, knowing that heat will likely get worse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Honestly, the more we experiment and learn about how to adapt, I think the wines are just getting better and better,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963906\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine.png\" alt=\"Red wine is poured into a clear wine glass.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1330\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-800x532.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-1020x678.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-160x106.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-768x511.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-1536x1021.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/wine-1920x1277.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In hotter temperatures, cabernet grapes lose their rich red color and produce sweeter, more alcoholic wines. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Where cabernet is king\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Farther south, Shafer Vineyards sits in the heart of Stags Leap, a Napa wine region that’s known for high-end cabernets. Winemaker Elias Fernandez says the grapes benefit from a cool evening breeze that blows in from San Francisco Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This summer, heat has already been a problem. July was the \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncei.noaa.gov/news/national-climate-202407\">hottest July on record\u003c/a> in California. Fernandez points to a grape cluster where small green grapes are nestled among larger purple ones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This is effects of the heat,” he says. “It’s not maturing, so this is where you lose some fruit.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963907\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1430px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963907\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias.png\" alt=\"A man stands in front of a vinyard, green hills visible in the distance.\" width=\"1430\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias.png 1430w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-800x1119.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-1020x1427.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-160x224.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-768x1074.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elias-1098x1536.png 1098w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1430px) 100vw, 1430px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Winemaker Elias Fernandez is installing new technology at Shafer Vineyards in Napa Valley to combat heat waves. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The damage isn’t too widespread this year, unlike in 2022. But with summers getting more intense, Fernandez says the winery is looking at technology to help the cabernet vines. They’re currently installing misters, which spray water into the air to cool the temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a constant mist,” he says. “How many of you have been to a party where they have misters? Doesn’t that feel good? Well, that’s what the vines are feeling.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"arts_13917165","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Still, using extra water is a challenge in drought-prone California, he says. Plus, the water droplets can concentrate the light on the grapes and burn them, so misters must be run until the sun sets to keep the droplets from collecting. But Fernandez says he’s hoping the misting will keep the cabernet vines producing at the highest level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think the first thing we’ll be doing is mitigation, hoping to keep it as the true varietal of Napa Valley,” he says. “That’s what we’re trying to do — is buy time and see what happens with this whole thing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, he’s not considering planting other grape varieties. With wines that are priced at $100 and up, cabernet is central to their business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, it’s hard to think that people are just going to throw cabernet out the door and plant something else,” he says. “I really do. It’s the king of the wines of the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Wine regions are shifting\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963908\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1402px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963908\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth.png\" alt=\"A white woman wearing round glasses stands in a room, looking serious.\" width=\"1402\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth.png 1402w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-800x1141.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-1020x1455.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-160x228.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-768x1096.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/elisabeth-1077x1536.png 1077w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1402px) 100vw, 1402px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Professor Elisabeth Forrestel is studying how Napa’s wine regions are shifting with climate change. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Elisabeth Forrestel is one person trying to understand the big swings in the temperature. In her lab at UC Davis, her research team is smashing Napa Valley grapes inside plastic bags. They’ll be analyzed at the molecular level to see how they change during the summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forrestel’s lab is gathering wine grapes from Napa Valley throughout the growing season, along with detailed temperature data, to see how the most crucial compounds for wine are affected by heat. Studies show the average temperature during the last 45 days of the growing season in Napa — when grapes ripen — has \u003ca href=\"https://doi.org/10.1002/joc.8162\">already warmed almost 3 degrees Fahrenheit\u003c/a> from 1958 to 2016. But it’s the intense heat waves that do the most damage to molecules that produce a wine’s color and aroma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you have these extreme heat events, you can have a lot of impact on the development of that flavor profile,” she says. “If it was just an average change, it would be a lot easier to manage.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"quest_19242","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Forrestel is working on updating a central guide for winemaking, known as the \u003ca href=\"https://caes.ucdavis.edu/news/taking-climate-change-vineyards\">Winkler Index\u003c/a>. Developed in the 1940s, it shows the ideal locations to grow different varieties of wine grapes, based on how much heat they receive. Napa Valley was originally indexed for cabernet sauvignon, but this could shift as the climate gets hotter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With cabernet being the \u003ca href=\"https://www.oiv.int/public/medias/5888/en-distribution-of-the-worlds-grapevine-varieties.pdf\">world’s most widely grown wine grape\u003c/a>, cabernet vines are resilient to different temperatures, Forrestel says. It’s a question of whether Napa winemakers may need new strategies to keep it producing at such a high-quality level. Since grapevines last 50 years or more, winemakers are faced with making planting decisions today that will need to withstand a hotter future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some of the paradigms in what you would plant need to shift,” she says. “People need to have different approaches so there can be more resilience and you can have more options.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13963909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3007px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13963909\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa.png\" alt=\"A vineyard.\" width=\"3007\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa.png 3007w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-800x532.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-1020x678.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-160x106.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-768x511.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-1536x1022.png 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-2048x1362.png 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/09/napa-1920x1277.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3007px) 100vw, 3007px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To keep producing high-quality cabernets, Napa Valley winemakers may need to blend them with other grapes to balance out the effects of heat. But wines labeled as blends, instead of cabernet, often sell at lower prices. \u003ccite>(Ryan Kellman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Would you pay the same for a blend?\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Blending cabernet with other red grapes could be one strategy. But since U.S. regulations require any bottle labeled cabernet to contain 75% cabernet, at some point wineries may be looking at changing their labels to say “red blend.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have a perception that a blend is not as high quality as getting that high-quality cabernet, and they’re not on the same price point, so it is a big shift,” Forrestel says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The challenge is particular to U.S. winemakers, since many other countries label their wines by region, instead of grape. The famed red wines from Bordeaux in France are already a mix of six grapes, including cabernet, so winemakers have more flexibility. \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/11/05/773097167/climate-change-is-disrupting-centuries-old-methods-of-winemaking-in-france\">Winemakers there have also struggled with heat\u003c/a>, so French authorities recently approved four more red-grape varieties for blending. Since the wines are labeled with Bordeaux, wine drinkers may not even notice the shift.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"arts_13963437","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Wines in the U.S. are generally labeled by the grape variety, a system that was promoted when the domestic wine industry was growing in prominence decades ago. In an effort to compete with wines from Europe, some thought focusing on the grape variety would demystify wines for consumers and show the quality of American wines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, that system may work against them. Cabernet sauvignon is the most popular red wine in the U.S., according to NielsenIQ. So Forrestel says consumers are also part of the solution by creating demand for wines that are better suited for a hotter climate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Be open,” she says. “Because I think it’s really easy to walk in and buy what you’re used to. And also, trust what you like and not what you’re told to like.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Climate change is affecting our food, and our food is affecting the climate. NPR is dedicating a week to \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/09/06/g-s1-19303/food-climate-solutions\">stories and conversations about the search for solutions\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/arts/13963901/can-the-most-popular-red-wine-in-the-u-s-endure-climate-change","authors":["byline_arts_13963901"],"categories":["arts_1","arts_22184","arts_835","arts_12276"],"tags":["arts_1407","arts_8727","arts_7515","arts_22301"],"affiliates":["arts_137"],"featImg":"arts_13963903","label":"source_arts_13963901","isLoading":false,"hasAllInfo":true}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. 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