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Photography is a passion, and I have had photos printed in \u003cem>National Geographic Traveler\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Travel + Leisure\u003c/em>.\r\n\r\nI contributed to a Williams-Sonoma cookbook: \u003ca href=\"http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/cooking-from-the-farmers-market-cookbook/\">Cooking from the Farmers' Market\u003c/a>, which was released in February 2010.\r\n\r\nI live in San Francisco, California and can often be found at local farmers markets seeking out the best of what's in season and chatting with farmers.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7a725b78e1c0fabf53d7d24653474df8?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Jennifer Maiser | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7a725b78e1c0fabf53d7d24653474df8?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/7a725b78e1c0fabf53d7d24653474df8?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/jennifer-maiser"},"stephanie-rosenbaum":{"type":"authors","id":"5038","meta":{"index":"authors_1716337520","id":"5038","found":true},"name":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Rosenbaum Klassen","slug":"stephanie-rosenbaum","email":"dixieday@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"},"cuesa":{"type":"authors","id":"5484","meta":{"index":"authors_1716337520","id":"5484","found":true},"name":"CUESA","firstName":"CUESA","lastName":null,"slug":"cuesa","email":"brie@cuesa.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"CUESA (Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture) is a nonprofit organization dedicated to cultivating a sustainable food system through the operation of the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market and its educational programs. Learn more at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">cuesa.org\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/323b5bab8e802e76af5b72a66b7c6987?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"cuesa","facebook":"CUESA","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"CUESA | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/323b5bab8e802e76af5b72a66b7c6987?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/323b5bab8e802e76af5b72a66b7c6987?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/cuesa"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_80838":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_80838","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"80838","score":null,"sort":[1398352248000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1398352248,"format":"aside","disqusTitle":"We Didn't Believe In 'Artisanal' Toast, Until We Made Our Own","title":"We Didn't Believe In 'Artisanal' Toast, Until We Made Our Own","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003ciframe width=\"600\" height=\"338\" src=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/event/embeddedVideo.php?storyId=305653252&mediaId=305860465\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>by Alastair Bland, Michaeleen Doucleff and Eliza Barclay, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/22/305653252/we-didnt-believe-in-artisanal-toast-until-we-made-our-own\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/22/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leave it to San Francisco to turn one of the simplest — and cheapest — dishes into the trendy snack du jour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're talking about toast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Artisanal\" toast is made from inch-thick, snow-white or grainy slices, lathered in butter and cinnamon or peanut butter and honey, then wrapped individually in wax paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And you think that latte is expensive. Each one of these slices will set you back at least $3.50.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The toast craze started at an unlikely location: a modest coffee shop, called Trouble, about four blocks from San Francisco's sleepy Ocean Beach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There, Giulietta Carrelli \u003ca href=\"http://www.psmag.com/navigation/health-and-behavior/toast-story-latest-artisanal-food-craze-72676/\">started selling\u003c/a> the thick slices seven years ago. Now the \"$4 toast,\" as the critics label it, is a featured item in bakeries, cafes and restaurants in San Francisco and beyond. Some even have a toast menu that changes daily.\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aficionados say it's the truest comfort food. And made well, toast will bring out the ultimate crumbiness and caramel notes of bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All the talk of toast got us feeling creative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the more we thought about it, we realized there might actually be further potential in toast to unleash. Forget the ordinary toaster. We decided to combine two hot trends, artisanal toast and DIY. Call it TIY.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80840\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1672px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/after_edit_4_wide-0a1cb0c57a0c3960547cd1be828a1da4192eb1501.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/after_edit_4_wide-0a1cb0c57a0c3960547cd1be828a1da4192eb1501.jpg\" alt=\"Post toast results. Photos: Alastair Bland, Eliza Barclay and Michaeleen Doucleff/NPR\" width=\"1672\" height=\"941\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80840\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Post toast results. Photos: Alastair Bland, Eliza Barclay and Michaeleen Doucleff/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We began with a bag of Trader Joe's white bread. Then we divided and conquered the art of toasting, the primitive way — with fire — all the way to the laptop. Yes, we tried to make toast with computer-generated heat and air. We also used a blowtorch, a pan of butter, a food dehydrator, a dryer and a coffee maker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our findings might surprise you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80839\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/firetoast_edit_custom-bdb61aba5ed990fee9aa006d3afddcae7e611d7e1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/firetoast_edit_custom-bdb61aba5ed990fee9aa006d3afddcae7e611d7e1-290x246.jpg\" alt=\"Fire-roasted toast will satisfy the smoke fiends at the breakfast table. Photo: Eliza Barclay/NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"246\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-80839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fire-roasted toast will satisfy the smoke fiends at the breakfast table. Photo: Eliza Barclay/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Paleo toast:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paleo is everywhere these days, so we had to give paleo toast a try. Glossing over the details of paleo bread-making, we went straight to the fire and a stick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We drove a slender stick through our slice of bread, which made a long, jagged hole. Our first attempt at caveman toast failed after 30 seconds, when the toast fell straight into the fire. Unfortunately, it turns out that bread doesn't hold up quite as well to an open flame as denser foods with small surface areas, like marshmallows and hot dogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our second attempt fared better. Gripping our stick carefully so as not to drop more bread in the fire, we tried to get the bread as close to the flame as possible without picking up any ash or soot from nearby logs. This was hard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a couple of minutes, we decided that our piece of unevenly charred bread would have to do. But it's the perfect piece for the eater who wants a little bit of everything: a gold patch, a burnt patch, a barely toasted patch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fire-roasted toast also boasts deep, smoky flavor. And with a little butter, it's quite a nice variation on a quotidian breakfast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80841\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/deepfried_edit_slide-2846ac307a2f832209072b3fdba110bd04ce82c31.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/deepfried_edit_slide-2846ac307a2f832209072b3fdba110bd04ce82c31-290x193.jpg\" alt=\"We recommend pan-frying to get as much butter as possible into a piece of toast. Photo: Eliza Barclay/NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-80841\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">We recommend pan-frying to get as much butter as possible into a piece of toast. Photo: Eliza Barclay/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pan-fried toast: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our next aim was to create toast with the perfect ratio of butter to crumb. Why not practically saturate the bread in this most flavorful of fats and fry until crisp?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We cranked up the stove to high and dropped 4 tablespoons of unsalted butter into a saucepan. Once the butter started to froth and brown, we gently lowered in the slice. After letting it sizzle furiously for about 15 seconds, we flipped it, discovering that the other side had turned gorgeously golden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Under the light, our toast glittered with tiny shards of butter clinging to the surface. Far from being wet and sticky, the toast was crisp, and almost dry to touch. The taste? Gloriously rich, with delicate crunch and depth. If you want the most calorific way to make toast, this is it. And this method guarantees a perfectly even distribution of butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80842\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/toastdehyd_edit_slide-19acf998582e6f6d82cb7c4c50b0105f754d676e1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/toastdehyd_edit_slide-19acf998582e6f6d82cb7c4c50b0105f754d676e1-290x193.jpg\" alt=\"Enjoy your toast pale and crispy? Then the dehydrator is the appliance for you. Photo: Alastair Bland for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-80842\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enjoy your toast pale and crispy? Then the dehydrator is the appliance for you. Photo: Alastair Bland for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dehydrated toast:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You could say that dehydrated bread is the Slow Food of toast. The plastic plug-in countertop dehydrator is commonly used for turning pieces of fruit into leathery slabs and fresh mushrooms into crispy-dried chips. But we thought it might produce an interesting version of toast, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dehydrating bread into something toast-like takes two days, as a coil of heated metal warms the air, pulls out moisture and sends it upward and out through the ventilation slats at the top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like your toast pale and crispy? Good. Because a soft slice of white bread comes out brittle as a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/11/301830813/a-love-letter-to-matzo-why-the-holey-cracker-is-a-crunch-above\">matzo cracker\u003c/a> after two days in the food dehydrator. In fact, we found the dehydrated bread shattered easily when subjected to the force of a butter knife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our conclusion from this experiment: If you want Melba toast the slow way, by all means, plug in that dehydrator. But if you want the sugar in your bread to caramelize, seek out some heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Blowtorched toast:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We wondered how we could make the most evenly browned toast with the fluffiest center. How about a blowtorch, that star of the modernist chef's kitchen? We headed down to Dad's workroom. The plan was to coax every square inch of the bread to caramelized perfection with the intense propane flame of a blowtorch. Seemed like it could be a slam dunk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trouble is, the flame of a blowtorch can be \u003cem>too\u003c/em> hot, charring the surface of the bread before the interior warms. The flame is so concentrated that the bread cannot be thoroughly heated — as one corner is torched, the opposite corner is cooling down. Check out our video at the top of the page.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, blowtorched toast was evenly browned and looked quite nice, with the unburned imprint of the tongs embedded in the bread. But it wasn't warm enough to melt butter on the surface. The toast had a singed flavor, fortunately without any hints of propane.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, there's no doubt that blowtorching your breakfast will impress guests. And we wouldn't be surprised if professional toast makers begin applying a touch of blowtorch flame to finish their product before their customers. It could be the gateway to $8 toast.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80843\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/coffee_edit_slide-bbf69f423f26b5005000de800d41009bdb56b1421.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/coffee_edit_slide-bbf69f423f26b5005000de800d41009bdb56b1421-290x193.jpg\" alt=\"Once again, the coffee maker proves it can do way more than brew a cup of Joe. Photo: Michaeleen Doucleff/NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-80843\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Once again, the coffee maker proves it can do way more than brew a cup of Joe. Photo: Michaeleen Doucleff/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Coffee maker toast:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After our success with the blowtorch, we decided to test out other appliances that aren't exactly made for cooking. Since the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/25/214799882/dishwasher-cooking-make-your-dinner-while-cleaning-the-plates\">dishwasher\u003c/a> clearly doesn't create the dry heat needed for toast, our next thought was the tried-and-true coffee maker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few months ago, we made an \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/11/15/245442083/coffee-maker-cooking-brew-up-your-next-dinner\">entire lunch\u003c/a> in Mr. Coffee. Surely, we could toast a slice of bread on the appliance's burner, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The answer is a resounding yes. Once again, the coffee maker proves it can do way more than brew a cup of Joe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you can't be in a rush when making coffee-maker toast. Creating a brown, crunchy layer on the bread's surface takes about 20 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And we had to put something heavy on top of the bread to press it against the coffee maker's burner. We used an apple, but a coffee mug works, as well. Just make sure whatever you choose doesn't crush your soft slice of bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alas, coffee maker toast isn't perfect. The top side gets a bit squashed. And when we tried to flip it over, it stuck to the burner. So not our top choice, but it'll make some passable toast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80844\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/dryer_edit_custom-ee206f5c24c412d6b4de2bd6dd5182705b949af01.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/dryer_edit_custom-ee206f5c24c412d6b4de2bd6dd5182705b949af01-290x204.jpg\" alt=\"No dryer sheets were used in this experiment, so at least the toast didn't have a floral flavor. Photo: Michaeleen Doucleff/NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"204\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-80844\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">No dryer sheets were used in this experiment, so at least the toast didn't have a floral flavor. Photo: Michaeleen Doucleff/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Laptop and clothes dryer toast:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, we really started thinking outside the box. Why not try a few appliances that aren't even found in the kitchen?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first item we turned to? A laptop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We sat the bread next to the laptop's fan. And waited. Like a day or two. And the results were disappointing. Nothing happened. Literally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fans on modern-day laptops don't emit enough heat or air to dry out the toast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The job required a bigger, hotter fan. \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/12/24/255869249/hair-dryer-cooking-from-smores-to-crispy-duck\">Hair dryer\u003c/a>? Too labor-intensive. How about the clothes dryer? We put the bread right next to the machine's vent and started a 50-minute cycle to dry Sunday night's laundry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alas, we were hindered by energy efficiency. The air coming out of the vent was too cool. It barely dried out the toast. And there was definitely no browning or crisping going on. (Note: We didn't use a dryer sheet. So at least the toast didn't pick up a floral flavor.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The TIY Verdict\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're looking for a delicious treat — and a few extra calories — try pan-fried toast. To impress your friends, pull out the blowtorch. And when you're stuck in a motel room and get a hankering for toast, the coffee maker should do the trick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or just wait for a toastery to open up in your neighborhood. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"80838 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=80838","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/04/24/we-didnt-believe-in-artisanal-toast-until-we-made-our-own-2/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":true,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":1588,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":["http://www.npr.org/templates/event/embeddedVideo.php"],"paragraphCount":52},"modified":1398352248,"excerpt":"Inspired by toast's ascendance as a trendy snack du jour, we push \"artisanal\" toast in new directions. Using a blowtorch, coffee maker and dryer, we prove you can toast it yourself without a toaster.","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"Inspired by toast's ascendance as a trendy snack du jour, we push "artisanal" toast in new directions. Using a blowtorch, coffee maker and dryer, we prove you can toast it yourself without a toaster.","title":"We Didn't Believe In 'Artisanal' Toast, Until We Made Our Own | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"We Didn't Believe In 'Artisanal' Toast, Until We Made Our Own","datePublished":"2014-04-24T08:10:48-07:00","dateModified":"2014-04-24T08:10:48-07:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"we-didnt-believe-in-artisanal-toast-until-we-made-our-own-2","status":"publish","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=305653252&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprByline":"Alastair Bland, Michaeleen Doucleff and Eliza Barclay","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 22 Apr 2014 14:17:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 22 Apr 2014 15:24:16 -0400","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/22/305653252/we-didnt-believe-in-artisanal-toast-until-we-made-our-own?ft=3&f=305653252","nprStoryId":"305653252","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 22 Apr 2014 15:24:00 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/80838/we-didnt-believe-in-artisanal-toast-until-we-made-our-own-2","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003ciframe width=\"600\" height=\"338\" src=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/event/embeddedVideo.php?storyId=305653252&mediaId=305860465\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>by Alastair Bland, Michaeleen Doucleff and Eliza Barclay, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/22/305653252/we-didnt-believe-in-artisanal-toast-until-we-made-our-own\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/22/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leave it to San Francisco to turn one of the simplest — and cheapest — dishes into the trendy snack du jour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're talking about toast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Artisanal\" toast is made from inch-thick, snow-white or grainy slices, lathered in butter and cinnamon or peanut butter and honey, then wrapped individually in wax paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And you think that latte is expensive. Each one of these slices will set you back at least $3.50.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The toast craze started at an unlikely location: a modest coffee shop, called Trouble, about four blocks from San Francisco's sleepy Ocean Beach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There, Giulietta Carrelli \u003ca href=\"http://www.psmag.com/navigation/health-and-behavior/toast-story-latest-artisanal-food-craze-72676/\">started selling\u003c/a> the thick slices seven years ago. Now the \"$4 toast,\" as the critics label it, is a featured item in bakeries, cafes and restaurants in San Francisco and beyond. Some even have a toast menu that changes daily.\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aficionados say it's the truest comfort food. And made well, toast will bring out the ultimate crumbiness and caramel notes of bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All the talk of toast got us feeling creative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the more we thought about it, we realized there might actually be further potential in toast to unleash. Forget the ordinary toaster. We decided to combine two hot trends, artisanal toast and DIY. Call it TIY.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80840\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1672px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/after_edit_4_wide-0a1cb0c57a0c3960547cd1be828a1da4192eb1501.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/after_edit_4_wide-0a1cb0c57a0c3960547cd1be828a1da4192eb1501.jpg\" alt=\"Post toast results. Photos: Alastair Bland, Eliza Barclay and Michaeleen Doucleff/NPR\" width=\"1672\" height=\"941\" class=\"size-full wp-image-80840\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Post toast results. Photos: Alastair Bland, Eliza Barclay and Michaeleen Doucleff/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We began with a bag of Trader Joe's white bread. Then we divided and conquered the art of toasting, the primitive way — with fire — all the way to the laptop. Yes, we tried to make toast with computer-generated heat and air. We also used a blowtorch, a pan of butter, a food dehydrator, a dryer and a coffee maker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our findings might surprise you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80839\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/firetoast_edit_custom-bdb61aba5ed990fee9aa006d3afddcae7e611d7e1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/firetoast_edit_custom-bdb61aba5ed990fee9aa006d3afddcae7e611d7e1-290x246.jpg\" alt=\"Fire-roasted toast will satisfy the smoke fiends at the breakfast table. Photo: Eliza Barclay/NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"246\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-80839\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fire-roasted toast will satisfy the smoke fiends at the breakfast table. Photo: Eliza Barclay/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Paleo toast:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paleo is everywhere these days, so we had to give paleo toast a try. Glossing over the details of paleo bread-making, we went straight to the fire and a stick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We drove a slender stick through our slice of bread, which made a long, jagged hole. Our first attempt at caveman toast failed after 30 seconds, when the toast fell straight into the fire. Unfortunately, it turns out that bread doesn't hold up quite as well to an open flame as denser foods with small surface areas, like marshmallows and hot dogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our second attempt fared better. Gripping our stick carefully so as not to drop more bread in the fire, we tried to get the bread as close to the flame as possible without picking up any ash or soot from nearby logs. This was hard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a couple of minutes, we decided that our piece of unevenly charred bread would have to do. But it's the perfect piece for the eater who wants a little bit of everything: a gold patch, a burnt patch, a barely toasted patch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fire-roasted toast also boasts deep, smoky flavor. And with a little butter, it's quite a nice variation on a quotidian breakfast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80841\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/deepfried_edit_slide-2846ac307a2f832209072b3fdba110bd04ce82c31.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/deepfried_edit_slide-2846ac307a2f832209072b3fdba110bd04ce82c31-290x193.jpg\" alt=\"We recommend pan-frying to get as much butter as possible into a piece of toast. Photo: Eliza Barclay/NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-80841\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">We recommend pan-frying to get as much butter as possible into a piece of toast. Photo: Eliza Barclay/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pan-fried toast: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our next aim was to create toast with the perfect ratio of butter to crumb. Why not practically saturate the bread in this most flavorful of fats and fry until crisp?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We cranked up the stove to high and dropped 4 tablespoons of unsalted butter into a saucepan. Once the butter started to froth and brown, we gently lowered in the slice. After letting it sizzle furiously for about 15 seconds, we flipped it, discovering that the other side had turned gorgeously golden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Under the light, our toast glittered with tiny shards of butter clinging to the surface. Far from being wet and sticky, the toast was crisp, and almost dry to touch. The taste? Gloriously rich, with delicate crunch and depth. If you want the most calorific way to make toast, this is it. And this method guarantees a perfectly even distribution of butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80842\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/toastdehyd_edit_slide-19acf998582e6f6d82cb7c4c50b0105f754d676e1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/toastdehyd_edit_slide-19acf998582e6f6d82cb7c4c50b0105f754d676e1-290x193.jpg\" alt=\"Enjoy your toast pale and crispy? Then the dehydrator is the appliance for you. Photo: Alastair Bland for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-80842\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enjoy your toast pale and crispy? Then the dehydrator is the appliance for you. Photo: Alastair Bland for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dehydrated toast:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You could say that dehydrated bread is the Slow Food of toast. The plastic plug-in countertop dehydrator is commonly used for turning pieces of fruit into leathery slabs and fresh mushrooms into crispy-dried chips. But we thought it might produce an interesting version of toast, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dehydrating bread into something toast-like takes two days, as a coil of heated metal warms the air, pulls out moisture and sends it upward and out through the ventilation slats at the top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like your toast pale and crispy? Good. Because a soft slice of white bread comes out brittle as a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/04/11/301830813/a-love-letter-to-matzo-why-the-holey-cracker-is-a-crunch-above\">matzo cracker\u003c/a> after two days in the food dehydrator. In fact, we found the dehydrated bread shattered easily when subjected to the force of a butter knife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our conclusion from this experiment: If you want Melba toast the slow way, by all means, plug in that dehydrator. But if you want the sugar in your bread to caramelize, seek out some heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Blowtorched toast:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We wondered how we could make the most evenly browned toast with the fluffiest center. How about a blowtorch, that star of the modernist chef's kitchen? We headed down to Dad's workroom. The plan was to coax every square inch of the bread to caramelized perfection with the intense propane flame of a blowtorch. Seemed like it could be a slam dunk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trouble is, the flame of a blowtorch can be \u003cem>too\u003c/em> hot, charring the surface of the bread before the interior warms. The flame is so concentrated that the bread cannot be thoroughly heated — as one corner is torched, the opposite corner is cooling down. Check out our video at the top of the page.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, blowtorched toast was evenly browned and looked quite nice, with the unburned imprint of the tongs embedded in the bread. But it wasn't warm enough to melt butter on the surface. The toast had a singed flavor, fortunately without any hints of propane.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, there's no doubt that blowtorching your breakfast will impress guests. And we wouldn't be surprised if professional toast makers begin applying a touch of blowtorch flame to finish their product before their customers. It could be the gateway to $8 toast.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80843\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/coffee_edit_slide-bbf69f423f26b5005000de800d41009bdb56b1421.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/coffee_edit_slide-bbf69f423f26b5005000de800d41009bdb56b1421-290x193.jpg\" alt=\"Once again, the coffee maker proves it can do way more than brew a cup of Joe. Photo: Michaeleen Doucleff/NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"193\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-80843\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Once again, the coffee maker proves it can do way more than brew a cup of Joe. Photo: Michaeleen Doucleff/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Coffee maker toast:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After our success with the blowtorch, we decided to test out other appliances that aren't exactly made for cooking. Since the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/25/214799882/dishwasher-cooking-make-your-dinner-while-cleaning-the-plates\">dishwasher\u003c/a> clearly doesn't create the dry heat needed for toast, our next thought was the tried-and-true coffee maker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few months ago, we made an \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/11/15/245442083/coffee-maker-cooking-brew-up-your-next-dinner\">entire lunch\u003c/a> in Mr. Coffee. Surely, we could toast a slice of bread on the appliance's burner, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The answer is a resounding yes. Once again, the coffee maker proves it can do way more than brew a cup of Joe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you can't be in a rush when making coffee-maker toast. Creating a brown, crunchy layer on the bread's surface takes about 20 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And we had to put something heavy on top of the bread to press it against the coffee maker's burner. We used an apple, but a coffee mug works, as well. Just make sure whatever you choose doesn't crush your soft slice of bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alas, coffee maker toast isn't perfect. The top side gets a bit squashed. And when we tried to flip it over, it stuck to the burner. So not our top choice, but it'll make some passable toast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80844\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/dryer_edit_custom-ee206f5c24c412d6b4de2bd6dd5182705b949af01.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/dryer_edit_custom-ee206f5c24c412d6b4de2bd6dd5182705b949af01-290x204.jpg\" alt=\"No dryer sheets were used in this experiment, so at least the toast didn't have a floral flavor. Photo: Michaeleen Doucleff/NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"204\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-80844\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">No dryer sheets were used in this experiment, so at least the toast didn't have a floral flavor. Photo: Michaeleen Doucleff/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Laptop and clothes dryer toast:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, we really started thinking outside the box. Why not try a few appliances that aren't even found in the kitchen?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first item we turned to? A laptop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We sat the bread next to the laptop's fan. And waited. Like a day or two. And the results were disappointing. Nothing happened. Literally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fans on modern-day laptops don't emit enough heat or air to dry out the toast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The job required a bigger, hotter fan. \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/12/24/255869249/hair-dryer-cooking-from-smores-to-crispy-duck\">Hair dryer\u003c/a>? Too labor-intensive. How about the clothes dryer? We put the bread right next to the machine's vent and started a 50-minute cycle to dry Sunday night's laundry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alas, we were hindered by energy efficiency. The air coming out of the vent was too cool. It barely dried out the toast. And there was definitely no browning or crisping going on. (Note: We didn't use a dryer sheet. So at least the toast didn't pick up a floral flavor.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The TIY Verdict\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're looking for a delicious treat — and a few extra calories — try pan-fried toast. To impress your friends, pull out the blowtorch. And when you're stuck in a motel room and get a hankering for toast, the coffee maker should do the trick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or just wait for a toastery to open up in your neighborhood. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/80838/we-didnt-believe-in-artisanal-toast-until-we-made-our-own-2","authors":["byline_bayareabites_80838"],"categories":["bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_334","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_2223","bayareabites_13227","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_9782"],"featImg":"bayareabites_80839","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_77318":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_77318","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"77318","score":null,"sort":[1391039944000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1391039944,"format":"aside","disqusTitle":"What Does “Artisanal” Mean, Anyway?","title":"What Does “Artisanal” Mean, Anyway?","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77328\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/june_taylor_jam.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/june_taylor_jam.jpg\" alt=\"June Taylor Jam. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"610\" height=\"410\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77328\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">June Taylor Jam. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Brie Mazurek, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/what-does-artisanal-mean-anyway\">Online Education Manager for CUESA\u003c/a> (1/22/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last December, the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> offered a list of \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/29/opinion/egan-words-for-the-dumpster.html?_r=1&\">words for the dumpster\u003c/a>, tired and worn-out terms ready for retirement in 2014. Topping the list was “artisan,” a term used in the marketing of products ranging from small-batch pickles and preserves to Tostitos tortilla chips and Starbucks sandwiches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless of mainstream attempts to co-opt the label, a truly artisanal food movement—based in craft, community, tradition, and innovation—is alive and kicking. For these businesses, growth is not something to take lightly; it’s a delicate dance between staying true to one’s values while adapting to new economies of scale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last Monday, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">CUESA\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/category/kitchen-table-talks-2/\">Kitchen Table Talks\u003c/a>, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a> co-hosted a \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/event/scaling-artisanal-food-how-big-too-big\">panel discussion\u003c/a> with three successful artisan business owners, posing the tough question, “How big is too big in artisanal food?” Moderator Marcy Coburn of the Oakland-based \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodcraftinstitute.org/\">Food Craft Institute\u003c/a> grilled panelists on what it means to be an artisan and how to grow with integrity in an expanding, and sometimes dubious, “artisanal” market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77329\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/scaling_up_artisan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/scaling_up_artisan.jpg\" alt=\"Elias Cairo, June Taylor, and Sue Conley. Photo courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"250\" height=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77329\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Elias Cairo, June Taylor, and Sue Conley. Photo courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sue Conley, co-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>, a cheese-making business based in Petaluma and Point Reyes, and Elias Cairo, salumist at the Portland charcuterie maker \u003ca href=\"http://www.olympicprovisions.com/\">Olympic Provisions\u003c/a>, represented the larger end of the artisan spectrum, with upwards of 80 employees each. On the microbusiness side was June Taylor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/\">June Taylor Company\u003c/a>, who has been making small-batch preserves “seven jars at a time” in Berkeley for 20+ years, with the help of only two employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What does it mean to be an ethical, sustainable, and viable food artisan in today’s world, and how do consumers distinguish the real deal from the impostors? Beyond a dedication to their craft, certain themes emerged among the panelists as principles they won’t compromise on:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Commitment to local farms and community.\u003c/strong> All three businesses source directly from their local foodshed, and they develop strong relationships by paying a fair price. “As we started scaling up, we really tried to support the farmers off the bat,” said Cairo, noting that all of Olympic Provisions’ pork now comes from a Mennonite family farm in the Northwest. Cowgirl gets all the milk for their cheese from Straus Family Creamery and a couple other small organic dairy farmers in their area, while June Taylor directly sources 90 to 95% of her fruit from California famers—never from outside the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Flexibility and creativity.\u003c/strong> Much like farmers, small food makers are often vulnerable to the vagaries of nature, but Taylor uses these challenges to hone her craft. She changes her offerings depending on what fruit is available, and she has learned patience and flexibility from the resilient farmers she sources from. “The personality to stay with your product after you see it destroyed…it’s just amazing,” she said. “I have to take that same attitude [with my own product].”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Transparency and education.\u003c/strong> These artisan producers got their start selling at farmers markets, and they continue to rely on direct marketing to educate and connect with their customer base, even as sales grow through online, retail, and wholesale channels. Cowgirl Creamery regularly hosts tours to open up their creameries to their community. That kind of transparency is key, according to Conley. “It’s honest. You really understand how [the cheese is] made, who made it, where the cows are from, what kind of cows, what kind of pasture…these are the things that make it a good cheese.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77330\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/cowgirl_creamery_cheese_racks.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/cowgirl_creamery_cheese_racks.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery cheese racks. Photo courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\" width=\"250\" height=\"256\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77330\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery cheese racks. Photo courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hands-on quality control.\u003c/strong> As small companies grow, there may be a temptation to outsource some of the production to keep up with demand through practices such as co-packing. If such relationships are not overseen or managed responsibly, quality can suffer. “We’re completely copacker-free,” said Cairo proudly. “We make every single product that’s on our line.” Cowgirl and Taylor also make all their own products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Employee health and respect.\u003c/strong> How big is too big? For Cairo, it’s “as soon as I see that tipping point of miserableness at my meat plant—of people not respecting and loving what we’re doing.” He regards his workers as his family, noting that he’s only lost one employee in five years of business. Paying workers well, offering health insurance, and ensuring a respectful, fun, and rewarding work environment are essential to his business’ mission and health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Innovation in moderation.\u003c/strong> Does “handcrafted” preclude technology? As Conley pointed out, much of small-scale production is hard, repetitive work. “I think we can mechanize parts of our production in the future that would allow us to get bigger and be more fun,” said Conley. “We’re hand-packing [our cheese], and it’s really hard. I think there are ways to take the backbreaking part out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Passing on their craft.\u003c/strong> Give someone a jar of preserves and they will eat for a day. Show them how to preserve food and they will eat for a lifetime. Developing skilled workers and educating the public are ways to extend the fruits of one’s artisanal labors. Taylor offers classes in her workshop, \u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/where/stillroom.htm\">The Still-Room\u003c/a>, and has dreams of one day turning it into a youth learning center. “I’ve dedicated 25 years of my life to this craft,” she said. “If nobody came up and did it in the next generation, it would be a real waste.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Collaboration, not competition.\u003c/strong> As support for handcrafted food grows, is there room for more truly artisanal businesses? “There’s a spirit of ‘the more the merrier,’ and if we’re all identified as a bloc, it’s much more powerful,” said Conley. Through Cowgirl’s cheese shops, she and her business partner Peggy Smith have helped to foster identity and connections for small cheese producers throughout their region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Taylor put it, “We have to break down this massive operational style of thinking about food into smaller units. The more small companies that grow, the better.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the full talk “How big is too big in artisanal food?”\u003c/strong> [audio src=\"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/blogs/bayareabites/cuesa-scaling_up_artisanal_food.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can find June Taylor Company and Cowgirl Creamery at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on Saturdays.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"77318 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=77318","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/01/29/what-does-artisanal-mean-anyway/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":true,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":1141,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":19},"modified":1391041596,"excerpt":"On January 20, CUESA, Kitchen Table Talks, and the Good Food Awards co-hosted a panel discussion with three successful artisan business owners, posing the tough question, “How big is too big in artisanal food?” Read the main principles discussed and listen to the talk.","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"On January 20, CUESA, Kitchen Table Talks, and the Good Food Awards co-hosted a panel discussion with three successful artisan business owners, posing the tough question, “How big is too big in artisanal food?” Read the main principles discussed and listen to the talk.","title":"What Does “Artisanal” Mean, Anyway? | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"What Does “Artisanal” Mean, Anyway?","datePublished":"2014-01-29T15:59:04-08:00","dateModified":"2014-01-29T16:26:36-08:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"what-does-artisanal-mean-anyway","status":"publish","path":"/bayareabites/77318/what-does-artisanal-mean-anyway","audioUrl":"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/blogs/bayareabites/cuesa-scaling_up_artisanal_food.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77328\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/june_taylor_jam.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/june_taylor_jam.jpg\" alt=\"June Taylor Jam. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"610\" height=\"410\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77328\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">June Taylor Jam. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Brie Mazurek, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/what-does-artisanal-mean-anyway\">Online Education Manager for CUESA\u003c/a> (1/22/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last December, the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> offered a list of \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/29/opinion/egan-words-for-the-dumpster.html?_r=1&\">words for the dumpster\u003c/a>, tired and worn-out terms ready for retirement in 2014. Topping the list was “artisan,” a term used in the marketing of products ranging from small-batch pickles and preserves to Tostitos tortilla chips and Starbucks sandwiches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless of mainstream attempts to co-opt the label, a truly artisanal food movement—based in craft, community, tradition, and innovation—is alive and kicking. For these businesses, growth is not something to take lightly; it’s a delicate dance between staying true to one’s values while adapting to new economies of scale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last Monday, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">CUESA\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/category/kitchen-table-talks-2/\">Kitchen Table Talks\u003c/a>, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a> co-hosted a \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/event/scaling-artisanal-food-how-big-too-big\">panel discussion\u003c/a> with three successful artisan business owners, posing the tough question, “How big is too big in artisanal food?” Moderator Marcy Coburn of the Oakland-based \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodcraftinstitute.org/\">Food Craft Institute\u003c/a> grilled panelists on what it means to be an artisan and how to grow with integrity in an expanding, and sometimes dubious, “artisanal” market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77329\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/scaling_up_artisan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/scaling_up_artisan.jpg\" alt=\"Elias Cairo, June Taylor, and Sue Conley. Photo courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"250\" height=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77329\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Elias Cairo, June Taylor, and Sue Conley. Photo courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sue Conley, co-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>, a cheese-making business based in Petaluma and Point Reyes, and Elias Cairo, salumist at the Portland charcuterie maker \u003ca href=\"http://www.olympicprovisions.com/\">Olympic Provisions\u003c/a>, represented the larger end of the artisan spectrum, with upwards of 80 employees each. On the microbusiness side was June Taylor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/\">June Taylor Company\u003c/a>, who has been making small-batch preserves “seven jars at a time” in Berkeley for 20+ years, with the help of only two employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What does it mean to be an ethical, sustainable, and viable food artisan in today’s world, and how do consumers distinguish the real deal from the impostors? Beyond a dedication to their craft, certain themes emerged among the panelists as principles they won’t compromise on:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Commitment to local farms and community.\u003c/strong> All three businesses source directly from their local foodshed, and they develop strong relationships by paying a fair price. “As we started scaling up, we really tried to support the farmers off the bat,” said Cairo, noting that all of Olympic Provisions’ pork now comes from a Mennonite family farm in the Northwest. Cowgirl gets all the milk for their cheese from Straus Family Creamery and a couple other small organic dairy farmers in their area, while June Taylor directly sources 90 to 95% of her fruit from California famers—never from outside the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Flexibility and creativity.\u003c/strong> Much like farmers, small food makers are often vulnerable to the vagaries of nature, but Taylor uses these challenges to hone her craft. She changes her offerings depending on what fruit is available, and she has learned patience and flexibility from the resilient farmers she sources from. “The personality to stay with your product after you see it destroyed…it’s just amazing,” she said. “I have to take that same attitude [with my own product].”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Transparency and education.\u003c/strong> These artisan producers got their start selling at farmers markets, and they continue to rely on direct marketing to educate and connect with their customer base, even as sales grow through online, retail, and wholesale channels. Cowgirl Creamery regularly hosts tours to open up their creameries to their community. That kind of transparency is key, according to Conley. “It’s honest. You really understand how [the cheese is] made, who made it, where the cows are from, what kind of cows, what kind of pasture…these are the things that make it a good cheese.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77330\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/cowgirl_creamery_cheese_racks.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/cowgirl_creamery_cheese_racks.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery cheese racks. Photo courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\" width=\"250\" height=\"256\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77330\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery cheese racks. Photo courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hands-on quality control.\u003c/strong> As small companies grow, there may be a temptation to outsource some of the production to keep up with demand through practices such as co-packing. If such relationships are not overseen or managed responsibly, quality can suffer. “We’re completely copacker-free,” said Cairo proudly. “We make every single product that’s on our line.” Cowgirl and Taylor also make all their own products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Employee health and respect.\u003c/strong> How big is too big? For Cairo, it’s “as soon as I see that tipping point of miserableness at my meat plant—of people not respecting and loving what we’re doing.” He regards his workers as his family, noting that he’s only lost one employee in five years of business. Paying workers well, offering health insurance, and ensuring a respectful, fun, and rewarding work environment are essential to his business’ mission and health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Innovation in moderation.\u003c/strong> Does “handcrafted” preclude technology? As Conley pointed out, much of small-scale production is hard, repetitive work. “I think we can mechanize parts of our production in the future that would allow us to get bigger and be more fun,” said Conley. “We’re hand-packing [our cheese], and it’s really hard. I think there are ways to take the backbreaking part out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Passing on their craft.\u003c/strong> Give someone a jar of preserves and they will eat for a day. Show them how to preserve food and they will eat for a lifetime. Developing skilled workers and educating the public are ways to extend the fruits of one’s artisanal labors. Taylor offers classes in her workshop, \u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/where/stillroom.htm\">The Still-Room\u003c/a>, and has dreams of one day turning it into a youth learning center. “I’ve dedicated 25 years of my life to this craft,” she said. “If nobody came up and did it in the next generation, it would be a real waste.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Collaboration, not competition.\u003c/strong> As support for handcrafted food grows, is there room for more truly artisanal businesses? “There’s a spirit of ‘the more the merrier,’ and if we’re all identified as a bloc, it’s much more powerful,” said Conley. Through Cowgirl’s cheese shops, she and her business partner Peggy Smith have helped to foster identity and connections for small cheese producers throughout their region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Taylor put it, “We have to break down this massive operational style of thinking about food into smaller units. The more small companies that grow, the better.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the full talk “How big is too big in artisanal food?”\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/blogs/bayareabites/cuesa-scaling_up_artisanal_food.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can find June Taylor Company and Cowgirl Creamery at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on Saturdays.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/77318/what-does-artisanal-mean-anyway","authors":["5484"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_12276","bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_2223","bayareabites_404","bayareabites_13011","bayareabites_13010","bayareabites_8828","bayareabites_580","bayareabites_8675","bayareabites_13009","bayareabites_13008","bayareabites_9058"],"featImg":"bayareabites_77328","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_71660":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_71660","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"71660","score":null,"sort":[1380899323000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1380899323,"format":"aside","disqusTitle":"How's The Sausage Made? These Folks Really Want To Share The Knowledge","title":"How's The Sausage Made? These Folks Really Want To Share The Knowledge","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71670\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/sausage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/sausage.jpg\" alt=\"Brent Gentry of Underground Meats rotates a coppa. Underground Meats is behind a new project that aims to lower the barrier to entry for would-be artisanal meat producers by making it easier for them to craft food safety plans. Photo: Emily Julka/Courtesy of Underground Meats\" width=\"1120\" height=\"630\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71670\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brent Gentry of Underground Meats rotates a coppa. Underground Meats is behind a new project that aims to lower the barrier to entry for would-be artisanal meat producers by making it easier for them to craft food safety plans. Photo: Emily Julka/Courtesy of Underground Meats\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/10/02/228587024/how-s-the-sausage-made-hackers-want-to-open-source-it-to-find-out\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (10/3/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the current bloom of artisanal small-batch producers across the country, you'd think that all you need to start up a new food business is a good idea and a lot of gumption. And for the most part, that's true. But when it comes to artisanal producers working with \u003cem>meat\u003c/em>, you also need something else: a Hazards Analysis and Critical Control Points plan. Or, if you will, a HACCP.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A HACCP (pronounced, by those in the industry, as HASSup) aims to accomplish the admirable goal of keeping our food supply safe by planning out critical control points, monitoring, hazard analysis and all that fun stuff, making sure that you don't get a dose of Listeria along with your \u003cem>saucisson\u003c/em> \u003cem>sec\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dry-cured meats, which never get a turn in the bacteria-killing heat of the oven and rely instead on critical control of pH and moisture levels, this is especially important. It may seem surprising that there isn't one universally required procedure. But that's both the bane and beauty of the HACCP.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The USDA Food Safety Inspection Service wants you to demonstrate that the food you make is safe,\" explains Arion Thiboumery, founder of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nichemeatprocessing.org/\">Niche Meat Processor Assistance Network\u003c/a>. \"They put out performance standards, but they don't tell you \u003cem>how\u003c/em>. People have tried a lot of different ways.\" This focus on results, rather than process, means that as long as you meet the safety requirements at the critical control points, you have some leeway in how you get there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The brilliance behind a HACCP plan is that it's so flexible,\" extols Elias Cairo, the co-founder of Portland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.olympicprovisions.com/\">Olympic Provisions\u003c/a>, the first USDA-certified charcuterie in Oregon. \"The lack of guidelines lets you produce anything you want, in exactly the way that you want, as long as you can prove that it's safe.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cairo is clearly a big fan of the HACCP (and the USDA in general), whose adaptability has allowed him to produce cured meats that are winning fans across the country. But this flexibility comes at a cost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of the sausage world's variation in process and recipe, each HACCP is uniquely tailored to each small-batch producer's process. Sausage-makers have to spend months and months familiarizing themselves with the scientific literature, taking classes and exams and providing the USDA documentation for the path they're taking — or pay significant money to consultants to come up with a plan for them, which can cost tens of thousands of dollars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And once they've paid (in money or sweat) for these plans, they don't necessarily want to share their trade secrets. But one sausage maker — \u003ca href=\"http://undergroundfoodcollective.org/meats\">Underground Meats\u003c/a>, of Madison, Wis. — is looking to establish a new model, by developing (via \u003ca href=\"http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/undergroundmeats/underground-meats-open-source-food-safety-model\">Kickstarter\u003c/a>) an open source HACCP plan template for all to use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think this is a large barrier to people entering the market, and if we remove it, we'll see really good products coming out,\" hopes Underground Meat's Jonny Hunter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the project's funding goal is reached, he aims to work with a third party company, possibly the University of Wisconsin, to lay out the process, and then publish the results under a \u003ca href=\"http://creativecommons.org/licenses/\">Creative Commons license\u003c/a>. \"The craft is something that takes time, but the knowledge of the safety side is something that should just be open and free.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hunter's mission seems to have struck a nerve in the artisanal meat community — as of this writing, the campaign is nearly three-fourths of the way to its $40,000 goal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thiboumery, of the Niche Meat Processor Assistance Network, notes that with the age of the average butcher, like the age of the average farmer, continuing to go up every year, removing barriers to entry for new, young producers could revitalize the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think it would be consistent with the mission of a land grant institution — let's use public money to solve a problem that we all agree should be solved.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But some, like Olympic Provisions' Elias Cairo, are a bit skeptical as to how it'll play out. The HACCP must be so specific that it'd be hard to universalize a sort of \"bible\" — beyond providing already-available general information on critical control points.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Hunter thinks that while it won't be a one-size-fits-all fix, the control points, steps and scientific justifications will be a valuable jumping-off point. \"People would have to tailor it individually — nobody would be able to just download it from the Internet; it needs to be specific. But if I would have had this five years ago, it would have saved me \u003cem>so\u003c/em> much time.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"71660 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=71660","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/04/hows-the-sausage-made-these-folks-really-want-to-share-the-knowledge/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":859,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":19},"modified":1380899323,"excerpt":"Artisanal meat producers face a big barrier to getting into the game: They have to come up with a complex food safety plan that can take months of research and tens of thousands of dollars to craft. A new project wants to make it easier for the next charcuterie master to open shop by creating an open-source safety plan that newbies can look to.","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"Artisanal meat producers face a big barrier to getting into the game: They have to come up with a complex food safety plan that can take months of research and tens of thousands of dollars to craft. A new project wants to make it easier for the next charcuterie master to open shop by creating an open-source safety plan that newbies can look to.","title":"How's The Sausage Made? These Folks Really Want To Share The Knowledge | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How's The Sausage Made? These Folks Really Want To Share The Knowledge","datePublished":"2013-10-04T08:08:43-07:00","dateModified":"2013-10-04T08:08:43-07:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"hows-the-sausage-made-these-folks-really-want-to-share-the-knowledge","status":"publish","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=228587024&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprByline":"Deena Prichep","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 03 Oct 2013 12:10:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 03 Oct 2013 13:45:32 -0400","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/10/02/228587024/how-s-the-sausage-made-hackers-want-to-open-source-it-to-find-out?ft=3&f=228587024","nprStoryId":"228587024","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 03 Oct 2013 13:45:00 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/71660/hows-the-sausage-made-these-folks-really-want-to-share-the-knowledge","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71670\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/sausage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/sausage.jpg\" alt=\"Brent Gentry of Underground Meats rotates a coppa. Underground Meats is behind a new project that aims to lower the barrier to entry for would-be artisanal meat producers by making it easier for them to craft food safety plans. Photo: Emily Julka/Courtesy of Underground Meats\" width=\"1120\" height=\"630\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71670\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brent Gentry of Underground Meats rotates a coppa. Underground Meats is behind a new project that aims to lower the barrier to entry for would-be artisanal meat producers by making it easier for them to craft food safety plans. Photo: Emily Julka/Courtesy of Underground Meats\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/10/02/228587024/how-s-the-sausage-made-hackers-want-to-open-source-it-to-find-out\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (10/3/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the current bloom of artisanal small-batch producers across the country, you'd think that all you need to start up a new food business is a good idea and a lot of gumption. And for the most part, that's true. But when it comes to artisanal producers working with \u003cem>meat\u003c/em>, you also need something else: a Hazards Analysis and Critical Control Points plan. Or, if you will, a HACCP.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A HACCP (pronounced, by those in the industry, as HASSup) aims to accomplish the admirable goal of keeping our food supply safe by planning out critical control points, monitoring, hazard analysis and all that fun stuff, making sure that you don't get a dose of Listeria along with your \u003cem>saucisson\u003c/em> \u003cem>sec\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dry-cured meats, which never get a turn in the bacteria-killing heat of the oven and rely instead on critical control of pH and moisture levels, this is especially important. It may seem surprising that there isn't one universally required procedure. But that's both the bane and beauty of the HACCP.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The USDA Food Safety Inspection Service wants you to demonstrate that the food you make is safe,\" explains Arion Thiboumery, founder of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nichemeatprocessing.org/\">Niche Meat Processor Assistance Network\u003c/a>. \"They put out performance standards, but they don't tell you \u003cem>how\u003c/em>. People have tried a lot of different ways.\" This focus on results, rather than process, means that as long as you meet the safety requirements at the critical control points, you have some leeway in how you get there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The brilliance behind a HACCP plan is that it's so flexible,\" extols Elias Cairo, the co-founder of Portland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.olympicprovisions.com/\">Olympic Provisions\u003c/a>, the first USDA-certified charcuterie in Oregon. \"The lack of guidelines lets you produce anything you want, in exactly the way that you want, as long as you can prove that it's safe.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cairo is clearly a big fan of the HACCP (and the USDA in general), whose adaptability has allowed him to produce cured meats that are winning fans across the country. But this flexibility comes at a cost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of the sausage world's variation in process and recipe, each HACCP is uniquely tailored to each small-batch producer's process. Sausage-makers have to spend months and months familiarizing themselves with the scientific literature, taking classes and exams and providing the USDA documentation for the path they're taking — or pay significant money to consultants to come up with a plan for them, which can cost tens of thousands of dollars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And once they've paid (in money or sweat) for these plans, they don't necessarily want to share their trade secrets. But one sausage maker — \u003ca href=\"http://undergroundfoodcollective.org/meats\">Underground Meats\u003c/a>, of Madison, Wis. — is looking to establish a new model, by developing (via \u003ca href=\"http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/undergroundmeats/underground-meats-open-source-food-safety-model\">Kickstarter\u003c/a>) an open source HACCP plan template for all to use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think this is a large barrier to people entering the market, and if we remove it, we'll see really good products coming out,\" hopes Underground Meat's Jonny Hunter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the project's funding goal is reached, he aims to work with a third party company, possibly the University of Wisconsin, to lay out the process, and then publish the results under a \u003ca href=\"http://creativecommons.org/licenses/\">Creative Commons license\u003c/a>. \"The craft is something that takes time, but the knowledge of the safety side is something that should just be open and free.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hunter's mission seems to have struck a nerve in the artisanal meat community — as of this writing, the campaign is nearly three-fourths of the way to its $40,000 goal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thiboumery, of the Niche Meat Processor Assistance Network, notes that with the age of the average butcher, like the age of the average farmer, continuing to go up every year, removing barriers to entry for new, young producers could revitalize the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think it would be consistent with the mission of a land grant institution — let's use public money to solve a problem that we all agree should be solved.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But some, like Olympic Provisions' Elias Cairo, are a bit skeptical as to how it'll play out. The HACCP must be so specific that it'd be hard to universalize a sort of \"bible\" — beyond providing already-available general information on critical control points.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Hunter thinks that while it won't be a one-size-fits-all fix, the control points, steps and scientific justifications will be a valuable jumping-off point. \"People would have to tailor it individually — nobody would be able to just download it from the Internet; it needs to be specific. But if I would have had this five years ago, it would have saved me \u003cem>so\u003c/em> much time.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/71660/hows-the-sausage-made-these-folks-really-want-to-share-the-knowledge","authors":["byline_bayareabites_71660"],"categories":["bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_2223","bayareabites_12503","bayareabites_12500","bayareabites_12501","bayareabites_243","bayareabites_2344","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_12502","bayareabites_8913"],"featImg":"bayareabites_71669","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_9858":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_9858","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"9858","score":null,"sort":[1264358331000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1264358331,"format":"aside","disqusTitle":"Gelateria Naia Goes Local","title":"Gelateria Naia Goes Local","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cp>Trevor Morris is a lot like any other Bay Area foodie. When he tastes something great, he can't wait to use it, share it, and think about how it could become part of his culinary repertoire. But as the co-founder of \u003ca href=\"http://www.gelaterianaia.com\">Gelateria Naia\u003c/a>, his first thought upon tasting anything particularly delicious is, \u003cem>Could I make gelato out of this? \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/flavors500.jpg\" alt=\"flavors\" title=\"flavors\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9964\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As anyone who's watched the original Japanese Iron Chef knows, just about anything can be made into something resembling a frozen dessert. (Tasting the buttered lobster ice cream sold at a popular ice-cream shop in Bar Harbor, Maine remains a low point of my tongue's career.) Even as simple a flavor as coffee can be trickier to perfect than one might assume. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company's years of dedication have paid off. Naia now has 4 gelato shops around the Bay Area, and freestanding counters in numerous Whole Foods stores throughout Northern California. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it wasn't until last week's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/18/2010-fancy-food-show/\">Fancy Food Show\u003c/a> in San Francisco that I tasted gelati that transported me from the fluorescent-lit Moscone Center to the arched pergolas of a Bologna side street, to where I spent many a euro (and lazy afternoon) at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lasorbetteria.it/categoria_eng.php?id=1\">La Sorbetteria Castiglione\u003c/a>, that gastronomic city's best gelateria. And it wasn't in the Italian-food aisle, but California-made at Gelateria Naia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What set these gelati apart was their purity and depth of flavor. Not too sweet, they were satiny smooth, pillowy and cool on the tongue, nipping right from the tongue straight to the brain's joy button. There was a deep, mellow coffee, rich but unbitter, made with \u003ca href=\"http://bluebottlecoffee.net/\">Blue Bottle\u003c/a> beans. There was a lovely, perfumey Earl Gray tea gelato steeped with a \u003ca href=\"http://www.numitea.com\">Numi Organic\u003c/a> blend. A \u003ca href=\"http://www.stgeorgespirits.com/\">St. George Spirits\u003c/a> single-malt gelato called out to be drenched with a shot of whiskey like a grown-up affogato. Chocolate was suave and mellow, the raw material provided by \u003ca href=\"http://www.tcho.com/\">Tcho\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/stgeorge500.jpg\" alt=\"st george\" title=\"st george\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9963\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What was the one thing all these flavors had in common? They were all locally inspired, featuring some of the best artisanal products from around the Bay Area. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/local-vendors500.jpg\" alt=\"local vendors\" title=\"local vendors\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9965\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part of the reasoning is, of course, a dedication to staying local. The company already gets many of its ingredients from nearby farms and producers, listing the day's sources on chalkboards in each of its stores. Yogurt from Pavel's, honey from Palamino Farms, fruits and nuts from Fiddyment Farms and B&B Ranch, among others, have become an integral part of Naia's offerings. As Morris notes,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> \"We opened our first store in 2002 and a year later decided to stop using the semi-finished ingredients we were importing from Italy. They tasted fine but it was a silly way to make gelato. Why buy chocolate from Italy when Guittard is right down the road? Why import pistachios when we can call and discuss different roasts with the grower in Roseville? And why would you ever use coffee flavoring when you can just use coffee beans? \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But there's also the undeniable business sense of cross-branding with a company that already has its dedicated fans, as Blue Bottle does. Most important, though, said Trevor as he handed me yet another spoonful to taste, is the brainstorming and resource-sharing that happens when obsessive geniuses get together. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of trying to learn everything about coffee in order to make a superlative coffee gelato, you go to a guy like Blue Bottle founder James Freeman, a man who probably spends most of his waking hours thinking about coffee. (Who needs sleep, when there's espresso?) And you sit down and talk, and by the time you get up from the table, you've hashed out a new cold-brewing method of getting big-bean flavor into your product without astringency or bitterness. Or you come back to the test kitchen with dozens of Numi teas, thinking you'll make one, two, maybe three tea flavors at the most. And then you taste tea after tea, each remarkable, each stunningly original, and you realize that you want to make a gelato out of almost every tea. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Same went with Tcho chocolate; to avoid the cloying heaviness that can weigh down some chocolate gelato, Naia gets pure chocolate liquor, without cocoa butter, for use in its version. Making gelato with high-proof alcohol is a dicey undertaking, since it resists freezing, but since their success with St. George's single-malt whiskey, they're now working on a similar gelato made with the company's popular Absinthe Verte. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plans for other partnerships are in the works (Morris is already working with chocolate star Michael Ricchiuti on a few possibilities), and the new local flavors should be available in Naia's shops in early February. But those who can't wait can attend Naia's upcoming \u003cstrong>Pre-Release Gelato Tasting Benefit\u003c/strong> on Feb. 4, held from 6-9pm at the Berkeley store at 2106 Shattuck Ave. (The $5 fee goes to Doctors Without Borders.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There will more than 20 brand-new flavors available featuring ingredients from TCHO Chocolate (TCHO Nutty, TCHO Chocolatey), Numi Tea (Earl Grey, Green Tea, Jasmine, Golden Chai, Rooibos), Blue Bottle Coffee (Bella Donovan, Hayes Valley Espresso, Sidamo), St George Spirits (absinthe, eau de vie) and Recchiuti Chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/96909%20\">Get more information and buy tickets\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"9858 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=9858","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/24/gelateria-naia-goes-local/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":892,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":19},"modified":1264358393,"excerpt":"What happens when a local gelato company teams up with some of the Bay Area's best artisanal food producers? Gelato that will transport you instantly to a sunny Italian sidewalk, no passport required. ","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"What happens when a local gelato company teams up with some of the Bay Area's best artisanal food producers? Gelato that will transport you instantly to a sunny Italian sidewalk, no passport required. ","title":"Gelateria Naia Goes Local | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Gelateria Naia Goes Local","datePublished":"2010-01-24T10:38:51-08:00","dateModified":"2010-01-24T10:39:53-08:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"gelateria-naia-goes-local","status":"publish","path":"/bayareabites/9858/gelateria-naia-goes-local","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Trevor Morris is a lot like any other Bay Area foodie. When he tastes something great, he can't wait to use it, share it, and think about how it could become part of his culinary repertoire. But as the co-founder of \u003ca href=\"http://www.gelaterianaia.com\">Gelateria Naia\u003c/a>, his first thought upon tasting anything particularly delicious is, \u003cem>Could I make gelato out of this? \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/flavors500.jpg\" alt=\"flavors\" title=\"flavors\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9964\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As anyone who's watched the original Japanese Iron Chef knows, just about anything can be made into something resembling a frozen dessert. (Tasting the buttered lobster ice cream sold at a popular ice-cream shop in Bar Harbor, Maine remains a low point of my tongue's career.) Even as simple a flavor as coffee can be trickier to perfect than one might assume. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company's years of dedication have paid off. Naia now has 4 gelato shops around the Bay Area, and freestanding counters in numerous Whole Foods stores throughout Northern California. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it wasn't until last week's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/18/2010-fancy-food-show/\">Fancy Food Show\u003c/a> in San Francisco that I tasted gelati that transported me from the fluorescent-lit Moscone Center to the arched pergolas of a Bologna side street, to where I spent many a euro (and lazy afternoon) at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lasorbetteria.it/categoria_eng.php?id=1\">La Sorbetteria Castiglione\u003c/a>, that gastronomic city's best gelateria. And it wasn't in the Italian-food aisle, but California-made at Gelateria Naia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What set these gelati apart was their purity and depth of flavor. Not too sweet, they were satiny smooth, pillowy and cool on the tongue, nipping right from the tongue straight to the brain's joy button. There was a deep, mellow coffee, rich but unbitter, made with \u003ca href=\"http://bluebottlecoffee.net/\">Blue Bottle\u003c/a> beans. There was a lovely, perfumey Earl Gray tea gelato steeped with a \u003ca href=\"http://www.numitea.com\">Numi Organic\u003c/a> blend. A \u003ca href=\"http://www.stgeorgespirits.com/\">St. George Spirits\u003c/a> single-malt gelato called out to be drenched with a shot of whiskey like a grown-up affogato. Chocolate was suave and mellow, the raw material provided by \u003ca href=\"http://www.tcho.com/\">Tcho\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/stgeorge500.jpg\" alt=\"st george\" title=\"st george\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9963\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What was the one thing all these flavors had in common? They were all locally inspired, featuring some of the best artisanal products from around the Bay Area. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/local-vendors500.jpg\" alt=\"local vendors\" title=\"local vendors\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9965\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part of the reasoning is, of course, a dedication to staying local. The company already gets many of its ingredients from nearby farms and producers, listing the day's sources on chalkboards in each of its stores. Yogurt from Pavel's, honey from Palamino Farms, fruits and nuts from Fiddyment Farms and B&B Ranch, among others, have become an integral part of Naia's offerings. As Morris notes,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> \"We opened our first store in 2002 and a year later decided to stop using the semi-finished ingredients we were importing from Italy. They tasted fine but it was a silly way to make gelato. Why buy chocolate from Italy when Guittard is right down the road? Why import pistachios when we can call and discuss different roasts with the grower in Roseville? And why would you ever use coffee flavoring when you can just use coffee beans? \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But there's also the undeniable business sense of cross-branding with a company that already has its dedicated fans, as Blue Bottle does. Most important, though, said Trevor as he handed me yet another spoonful to taste, is the brainstorming and resource-sharing that happens when obsessive geniuses get together. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of trying to learn everything about coffee in order to make a superlative coffee gelato, you go to a guy like Blue Bottle founder James Freeman, a man who probably spends most of his waking hours thinking about coffee. (Who needs sleep, when there's espresso?) And you sit down and talk, and by the time you get up from the table, you've hashed out a new cold-brewing method of getting big-bean flavor into your product without astringency or bitterness. Or you come back to the test kitchen with dozens of Numi teas, thinking you'll make one, two, maybe three tea flavors at the most. And then you taste tea after tea, each remarkable, each stunningly original, and you realize that you want to make a gelato out of almost every tea. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Same went with Tcho chocolate; to avoid the cloying heaviness that can weigh down some chocolate gelato, Naia gets pure chocolate liquor, without cocoa butter, for use in its version. Making gelato with high-proof alcohol is a dicey undertaking, since it resists freezing, but since their success with St. George's single-malt whiskey, they're now working on a similar gelato made with the company's popular Absinthe Verte. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plans for other partnerships are in the works (Morris is already working with chocolate star Michael Ricchiuti on a few possibilities), and the new local flavors should be available in Naia's shops in early February. But those who can't wait can attend Naia's upcoming \u003cstrong>Pre-Release Gelato Tasting Benefit\u003c/strong> on Feb. 4, held from 6-9pm at the Berkeley store at 2106 Shattuck Ave. (The $5 fee goes to Doctors Without Borders.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There will more than 20 brand-new flavors available featuring ingredients from TCHO Chocolate (TCHO Nutty, TCHO Chocolatey), Numi Tea (Earl Grey, Green Tea, Jasmine, Golden Chai, Rooibos), Blue Bottle Coffee (Bella Donovan, Hayes Valley Espresso, Sidamo), St George Spirits (absinthe, eau de vie) and Recchiuti Chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/96909%20\">Get more information and buy tickets\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/9858/gelateria-naia-goes-local","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_1875"],"tags":["bayareabites_2223","bayareabites_3367","bayareabites_3366","bayareabites_1298","bayareabites_110","bayareabites_3370","bayareabites_3368","bayareabites_607","bayareabites_3369"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_4140":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_4140","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"4140","score":null,"sort":[1243710038000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1243710038,"format":"aside","disqusTitle":"Nduja? N-Judah?","title":"Nduja? N-Judah?","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/05/nduja.jpg\" alt=\"nduja\" title=\"nduja\" width=\"297\" height=\"240\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4141\">We carnivores who live in the Bay Area are a privileged bunch -- on any given day, we can choose to eat \u003ca href=\"http://fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf's bacon\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://framani.com/\">Fra Mani's salami\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.4505meats.com/\">4505's chicharrones\u003c/a> and countless other artisan charcuterie around the city. To that list, I would add \u003ca href=\"http://www.boccalone.com/index.cfm\">Boccalone's pork ragu\u003c/a>. It's a lucious ragu that is intensely spiced and just perfect when tossed with pappardelle. Until a couple weeks ago, my main interface with Boccalone was to buy the ragu, or to pick up a sandwich or two for a picnic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Boccalone is a store that is located in the Ferry Building, and is the brainchild of Incanto chef Chris Cosentino and his business partner Mark Pastore. It has been open less than a year, and attracts great attention in the Ferry Building with its pristine meat slicers and case of hanging meats. In addition to their delectable porcine products, Boccalone also offers sparkling water (like what is offered at \u003ca href=\"http://www.incanto.biz\">Incanto\u003c/a>) -- I love filling up my bottle on farmers market days before I battle the crowds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been spending more time at Boccalone these days, however, and it's all the fault of a delicious new product called Nduja. Let's all say it together, class: en-doo-ya. Can't remember how to pronounce it? Ask for the \"N-Judah,\" like I do, and you will get a smile and the lovely Boccalone staff will hand over the $11 salami-shaped package. Nduja is a Calabrian spreadable salami that is spicy and full of flavor. I love bringing it to room temperature and eating it on fresh bread. Once it's at room temperature, it spreads just like butter and is has a great mouthfeel. Nduja roots come from the French andouille sausage and the flavor profile is not unlike the andouille in smokiness and layers of flavor. Friends have been tweeting about mixing a dollop of it in omelettes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because this is such a new and unusual product, the folks at Boccalone tend to have some out on sample -- I would suggest that you try it next time you're at the Ferry Building.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Photo Credit: \u003ca href=\"http://www.bunrab.com\">Bunrab\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","disqusIdentifier":"4140 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=4140","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/05/30/nduja-n-judah/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":363,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":7},"modified":1243789386,"excerpt":"Boccalone is a store that is located in the Ferry Building, and is the brainchild of Incanto chef Chris Cosentino and his business partner Mark Pastore. It has been open less than a year, and attracts great attention in the Ferry Building with its pristine meat slicers and case of hanging meats. In addition to their delectable porcine products, Boccalone also offers sparkling water (like what is offered at \u003ca href=\"http://www.incanto.biz\">Incanto\u003c/a>) -- I love filling up my bottle on farmers market days before I battle the crowds.","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"Boccalone is a store that is located in the Ferry Building, and is the brainchild of Incanto chef Chris Cosentino and his business partner Mark Pastore. It has been open less than a year, and attracts great attention in the Ferry Building with its pristine meat slicers and case of hanging meats. In addition to their delectable porcine products, Boccalone also offers sparkling water (like what is offered at Incanto) -- I love filling up my bottle on farmers market days before I battle the crowds.","title":"Nduja? N-Judah? | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Nduja? N-Judah?","datePublished":"2009-05-30T12:00:38-07:00","dateModified":"2009-05-31T10:03:06-07:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"nduja-n-judah","status":"publish","path":"/bayareabites/4140/nduja-n-judah","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/05/nduja.jpg\" alt=\"nduja\" title=\"nduja\" width=\"297\" height=\"240\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4141\">We carnivores who live in the Bay Area are a privileged bunch -- on any given day, we can choose to eat \u003ca href=\"http://fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf's bacon\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://framani.com/\">Fra Mani's salami\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.4505meats.com/\">4505's chicharrones\u003c/a> and countless other artisan charcuterie around the city. To that list, I would add \u003ca href=\"http://www.boccalone.com/index.cfm\">Boccalone's pork ragu\u003c/a>. It's a lucious ragu that is intensely spiced and just perfect when tossed with pappardelle. Until a couple weeks ago, my main interface with Boccalone was to buy the ragu, or to pick up a sandwich or two for a picnic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Boccalone is a store that is located in the Ferry Building, and is the brainchild of Incanto chef Chris Cosentino and his business partner Mark Pastore. It has been open less than a year, and attracts great attention in the Ferry Building with its pristine meat slicers and case of hanging meats. In addition to their delectable porcine products, Boccalone also offers sparkling water (like what is offered at \u003ca href=\"http://www.incanto.biz\">Incanto\u003c/a>) -- I love filling up my bottle on farmers market days before I battle the crowds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been spending more time at Boccalone these days, however, and it's all the fault of a delicious new product called Nduja. Let's all say it together, class: en-doo-ya. Can't remember how to pronounce it? Ask for the \"N-Judah,\" like I do, and you will get a smile and the lovely Boccalone staff will hand over the $11 salami-shaped package. Nduja is a Calabrian spreadable salami that is spicy and full of flavor. I love bringing it to room temperature and eating it on fresh bread. Once it's at room temperature, it spreads just like butter and is has a great mouthfeel. Nduja roots come from the French andouille sausage and the flavor profile is not unlike the andouille in smokiness and layers of flavor. Friends have been tweeting about mixing a dollop of it in omelettes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because this is such a new and unusual product, the folks at Boccalone tend to have some out on sample -- I would suggest that you try it next time you're at the Ferry Building.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Photo Credit: \u003ca href=\"http://www.bunrab.com\">Bunrab\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/4140/nduja-n-judah","authors":["5019"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_2223","bayareabites_2221","bayareabites_110","bayareabites_2224","bayareabites_616","bayareabites_2222"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. 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