Sam Wo Restaurant has long been a late-night favorite in Chinatown. Aside from being possibly the oldest restaurant in the neighborhood, Sam Wo earned its place in the annals of San Francisco history due to their outrageous head waiter, the notoriously rude Edsel Ford Fong.
Fong’s antics included berating customers, changing their orders, and insulting their dates. His rudeness was so over-the-top that it became legendary — so much that people visited the restaurant just to experience the abuse firsthand. Fong’s regular visitors were both curious tourists and celebrities alike, including poet Allen Ginsburg and talk show host Conan O’ Brian. He regularly appeared in Herb Caen’s newspaper column and even inspired a character in Armistead Maupin’s Tales from the City.
Whether his abusive behavior was genuine or performance art, it helped both Sam Wo remain in the limelight throughout the ’60s and ’80s. Although Fong is no longer with us, Sam Wo has remained a local institution, continuing to serve its well-known BBQ pork noodle rolls and youtiao fried donuts. We recently received word that Sam Wo may be closing soon, so visit while you can and get a taste of history.
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About No Crumbs: In KQED’s No Crumbs, host Josh Decolongon is a foodie field reporter, uncovering histories and celebrating the culture behind the Bay Area’s exciting and diverse culinary landscape. No Crumbs will inspire new perspectives on the Bay Area food scene you thought you knew. No Crumbs is produced by Josh Decolongon and Janelle Hessig for KQED.